MAR/APR 2013 THE MEN’S ISSUE $50.00 14 DAYS 14 DAYS OF FOOD & WINE IN PORTUGAL AND SPAIN A balmy Mediterranean climate combined with exotic Moorish architecture, intricately gilded cathedrals and superb winemakers producing everything from nuanced port to spicy rioja make this Iberian Peninsula itinerary ideal for food and wine aficionados. Start in northern Portugal’s history-rich city of Porto, savor rare vintages and terraced vineyard vistas in the sunny Douro Valley and discover the soulful side of photogenic Lisbon; enjoy an authentic evening tapas tour, a private cooking lesson and an artist-led exploration of Madrid’s top art collections before venturing into the heart of Andalusia with exclusive experiences in multifaceted Córdoba, alluring Granada and romantic Seville. BY DONNA HEIDERSTADT 120 DOURO VALLEY / PORTUGAL BACCHUS SUITE / THE YEATMAN AERIAL VIEW / AQUAPURA DOURO VALLEY LUÍS I BRIDGE / PORTO 1 ARRIVE IN PORTO Meet your Ker & Downey guide at Oporto Airport and head to The Yeatman, an 2 EXPLORE THE MINHO REGION Join your guide for an excursion to the Minho Region, where you’ll visit Guimaraes, 3 DISCOVER THE DOURO VALLEY Depart Porto by luxury sedan for the Douro Region, the center of Portuguese wine 82-room wine hotel on the south bank of a city considered the cradle of Portuguese making, with a stop en-route in the town of the river Douro offering exquisite views of nationality. At its center is UNESCO World Amarante to visit the photogenic São Gonçalo beautiful Porto. Once you’ve had time to Heritage site Oliveira Square and the Bridge and Cathedral. As you enter the relax in the 1,615-square-foot Bacchus 15th-century Palace of the Dukes of Douro Valley, famous for its dramatic ter- Suite (about $1,164 a night), you’ll be picked Braganza, which houses valuable artifacts raced vineyards set above the scenic Douro up for a half-day private tour visiting Porto’s that include Pastrana maritime tapestries River, you’ll board a classic wooden yacht significant monuments: Lavishly gilded St. and East India Company porcelain. Continue chartered for your private use. Enjoy the Francis Church, the Sé Cathedral and the on to Casa de Juste, where delightful sights as you lunch on deck while some of pedestrian shopping area of St. Catherine’s owners Fernando and Ana Guedes will Portugal’s most stunning vineyard vistas Street. Return to the Historic Port Wine share details of their historic manor house envelop you. It’s a serene prequel to your Cellar District via the Luís I Bridge—one of (it has been in the family for 600 years) stay at Aquapura Douro Valley, a salmon- six spanning the river—to tour the barrel ag- during a lunch and a walk through their hued 19th-century manor house with ing rooms at renowned port producer Taylor 15-acre estate. Spend the rest of the dramatic modern décor and relaxing river Fladgate. Taste numerous vintages, among afternoon relaxing at The Yeatman, before views. As sunset washes everything in gold, them the rare 150-year-old Scion Port. Back enjoying a traditional Portuguese dinner sip a luscious Douro red from the hotel’s at the hotel, continue to savor the region’s (try Alheira, a bread and chicken sausage) extensive wine list on the umbrella-studded flavors with an eight-course, wine-paired at Dom Tonho, a favorite of local business- terrace before dining on Mediterranean- dinner at Michelin-starred Yeatman Res- men (John Malkovich and Alanis Morissette inspired cuisine at Almapura, one of two taurant, which combines classic ambience have dined here, too). End your day with a restaurants on property. with creative contemporary cuisine. private tour of the Stock Exchange Palace Aquapura Douro Valley: General Manager The Yeatman: General Manager Miguel (Palacio da Bolsa) as you wander through Miguel Sìmöes de Almeida, 351-254-660- Velez, 351-22-013-3120; miguel.velez@ two centuries of history and marvel at the 600; [email protected]; theyeatman.com; www.theyeatman.com kaleidoscopic Arab Room. www.aquapurahotels.com DOWNLOAD EXCLUSIVE DESTINATION GUIDES AT www.elitetraveler.com/destinationguides 121 14 DAYS 4 RELAX AND UN-WINED The best part of visiting a wine region is savoring it—and with nothing on your itinerary 6 LISBON BY LAND & SEA Today, discover the rich history and architecture of Lisbon, a captivating city set on seven 8 A TASTE OF MADRID A panoramic guided drive takes in 17th-century Baroque buildings, such as the City Hall beyond eating, drinking and relaxing, Aqua- hills. Start at hilltop St. George’s Castle to and Plaza Mayor; contemporary designs, pura will ensure you are pampered for the enjoy a panoramic city view, and continue including Jean Nouvel’s annex to the Reina next 24 hours. After waking in the spacious, through Alfama, Lisbon’s oldest and most Sofia modern art museum; and the chic 19th- light-filled Panoramic Suite (from about atmospheric quarter, where Portugal’s best and 20th-century facades of the Salamanca $798 a night), with its two full bathrooms Fado singers perform. Then it’s off to Belem, neighborhood. Visit the Royal Palace, resi- and dramatic king-sized canopy bed, you where wealth from 15th- and 16th-century dence to Kings of Spain past, before taking a can choose to relax at the tranquil vineyard- seafaring exploits built the extravagant guided walk to experience daily life in Madrid. view pool or enjoy a massage at the thermal Jeronimos Monastery and Belem Tower. Stroll through a local food market, stop at spa with panoramic sauna and heated Lunch is aboard the Santa Barbara, as you jewelry designer Helena Rohner’s atelier and waterbeds. Later, challenge your partner cruise toward Cascais, a town at the edge of peruse the exquisite fans at Casa de Diego. to a game of tennis on the grass court or the Atlantic from which sailors set off on voy- Later, visit the home of creative Spanish chef sample the Douro’s best wines in the strik- ages of discovery. While here, dine at Porto and world traveler Pilar Latorre for a conviv- ingly contemporary bar. If visiting a few local Santa Maria, lauded for transforming fresh ial cooking lesson as you prepare a four- quintas (wine estates) appeals, Aquapura local fish into a gastronomic feast, before course dinner and enjoy it over conversation can arrange for a leisurely excursion. returning to Lisbon along the Estoril Coast. with Pilar and her husband René. DOURO RIVER / DOURO VALLEY ROYAL SUITE / OLISSIPPO LAPA PALACE CITY VIEW / LISBON BELEM TOWER / LISBON 5 122 EN-ROUTE TO LISBON On your way to Portugal’s capital, visit a trio of medieval towns: Viseu, which dates to the 7 MADRID VIA THE ALENTEJO Your last day in Portugal is a scenic one as you travel to Madrid via the golden plains of 9 SPANISH MASTERS AND TAPAS TOUR Today, immerse yourself in two of Madrid’s specialties: Art and tapas. In the morn- Roman era and is home to a 12th-century ca- the Alentejo Region, known for its castles, ing, Pablo Alvarez de Toledo, a prominent thedral and beautifully embellished facades; Roman ruins, olive oil and wine. At Evora, Spanish painter and art professor, will offer Bussaco, set amid woods planted by Carmel- a medieval walled city that is home to the expert commentary during a private tour of ite friars in the early 1600s, where you’ll lunch Temple of Diana, refuel at Tasquinha do the city’s top art museums. At the Prado, at João Vaz Restaurant in the ornate Bussaco Oliveira, a cozy traditional restaurant run by learn about the life and work of Spanish Palace; and Obidos, a walled array of white- the owner and his wife. Cross the border into masters Velázquez, Goya and El Greco, and washed houses decorated with vibrant flower Spain and head to the capital, where you’ll view some of the world’s great paintings. At boxes. In Lisbon, check into 19th-century check into the 3,121-square-foot Real Suite Reina Sofia, your host will detail the works Olissippo Lapa Palace, like Sting, Bono and ($20,000 a night) at Hotel Villa Magna, a 150- of surrealist Dali and Spanish icon Picasso, Cher have done. The elaborate Royal Suite room property with classic-meets-contem- whose 1937 masterpiece Guernica is on with terrace views of the Tagus River awaits porary style (Angelina Jolie, Brad Pitt, Johnny display. After an afternoon at leisure, your (from about $3,068 a night). Depp and Hugh Jackman are fans). Later in evening host will lead you on an informal Olissippo Lapa Palace: General Manager the evening, relax over a hosted tapas dinner. “tapas tour” to sample regional specialties, Fernando Maia, 351-213-949-494; Hotel Villa Magna: General Manager Charles such as simple yet flavorful seafood from [email protected]; L. Morris, 34-91-587-1234; charles.morris@ southern Spain at Casa Curro Taberna and www.olissippohotels.com villamagna.es; www.villamagna.es classic tapas dishes at cozy Taberna Bilbao. 10 A JOURNEY TO ANDALUSIA This morning head to fascinating Córdoba, once the capital of the Moorish kingdom of 12 VISIONS OF PAST AND PRESENT Spend the morning at leisure, enjoying the hotel’s spa and sauna, before your guide 14 STALLIONS, SHERRY AND A SUBLIME VIEW Andalusia also prizes its horsemanship and its sherry, and this morning you’ll visit Jerez Al-Andalus. Discover its many cultural sites, escorts you to an exclusive epicurean deli- de la Frontera, a city known for both. Attend including the Mezquita, a cathedral-mosque catessen close to the Plaza de los Campos, an elaborately costumed performance—often comprising a labyrinth of more than 500 red where its knowledgeable owner will lead described as equestrian ballet—at the Royal and white arched columns. You’ll also visit you through mini-course tastings of local Andalusian School of Equestrian Art, fol- the city’s 14th-century Synagogue, first- artisanal cheeses, cured meats and hams lowed by a private tapas-paired sherry tasting century Roman Bridge and the Alcázar with from the Sierra Nevada, extra virgin olive at Emilio Lustau Winery, maker of fine sherry its Moorish-inspired gardens. Spend the rest oils and classic Andalusian dishes—accom- since 1896. After returning to Seville, enjoy an of the afternoon lounging poolside at Palacio panied by wonderful wines and sherries. exclusive dinner on Atico Dos Fuentes, the del Bailio, a tranquil 53-room palace- Granada offers up one magical photo-op terrace of a neo-Baroque palace owned by turned-hotel whose 818-square-foot Grand after another, so it’s the perfect spot to Miguel Lasso de la Vega, the Viscount of Dos Suite Loft (about $732 a night) is enchanting. spend the afternoon with an English expat Fuentes. The Viscount will join you (as he has Palacio del Bailio: General Manager photographer who will lead you on a photo Tom Cruise and Cameron Diaz) to explain his Veronique Timsonet, 34-957-49-8993; safari that ensures you’ll depart Granada family’s heritage as you spend your final night [email protected]; with a very personal view of this utterly in Spain in this privileged setting overlooking www.hospes.com intriguing city. the Cathedral and the Giralda. ALHAMBRA / GRANADA REAL SUITE / HOTEL VILLA MAGNA ROYAL SUITE / HOTEL ALFONSO XIII SAN FERNANDO RESTAURANT / HOTEL ALFONSO XIII PRESIDENTIAL SUITE / PALACIO DE LOS PATOS GRAND LOFT SUITE / PALACIO DEL BAILIO 11 GRANADA’S GRAND TREASURES 13 VIVA EL FLAMENCO! 151-room Hotel Alfonso XIII, A Luxury Col- EXPLORING THE IBERIAN PENINSULA IN VIP STYLE the city. Moorish and Christian elements lection Hotel, which opened in 1929 and just Known for its global team of knowl- abound, culminating in one of the gems of completed a lavish renovation. Like Bruce edgeable, bilingual guides, US-based architecture: The Alhambra. Highlights of Springsteen and Madonna, indulge in the Ker & Downey creates bespoke jour- this palatial 14th-century complex include 1,572-square-foot, modern Moorish-style neys filled with extraordinary, hands- the Arrayanes Courtyard and its reflecting Royal Suite (from about $2,323 a night). on experiences that go beneath the pool, the delicately carved Court of Lions An afternoon guided walking tour takes in surface to truly inspire, attracting star and the exquisitely landscaped Generalife the historic Santa Cruz district, Seville’s clients like Beyoncé Knowles and Jay-Z. Gardens. Later, check in at Palacio de los oldest and most atmospheric quarter. After The luxury travel company works with Patos, a stately 19th-century palace that a dinner of modern Andalusian cuisine at the most exclusive hotels and top local now houses 42 elegant rooms—including the the hotel’s San Fernando restaurant, enjoy suppliers to deliver unparalleled itin- Presidential Suite (about $679 a night) with front-row seats at El Arenal, the city’s pre- eraries; in Spain and Portugal, expect soaring ceilings and a garden-view balcony, mier flamenco venue. a singular experience that blends the where you will spend the next two nights. Hotel Alfonso XIII: General Manager region’s fascinating history with its Palacio de los Patos: Director Marc Passola, Carlo Suffredini, 34-954-91-7007; welcoming and passionate people. 34-958-53-5790; gm.palaciopatos@hospes. [email protected]; Contact: Vice President David Jones, com; www.hospes.com www.hotel-alfonsoxiii-seville.com (281) 371-2500; djones@kerdowney. After breakfast and a relaxing drive to nearby Granada, take a walking tour of Transfer to orange tree-lined Seville and the com; www.kerdowney.com 123