SPAIN WORLD HERITAGE CITY TABLE OF CONTENTS POR TUG AL Toledo and its History ITINERARIES IN THE CITY Itinerary I Itinerary II Itinerary III Itinerary IV Dublin Other Places of Interest ITINERARIES THROUGH THE PROVINCE IRELAND Itinerary I Itinerary II UNITED KINGDOM Itinerary III Itinerary IV London Itinerary V Itinerary VI Other Places of Interest Useful Information Paris Cuisine Handicrafts Leisure Activites and Special Events FRANCE Popular Festivals Map of Toledo Addresses and Telephone Numbers of Interest 1 4 4 8 13 17 20 21 22 23 24 25 27 28 29 30 31 32 32 33 34 36 SPAIN Lisbon Madrid TOLEDO © Ceuta Melilla MOROCCO Rabat T U R E S P A Ñ A Secretaría de Estado de Comercio, Turismo y PYME Ministerio de Economía y Hacienda Text: Tomás Díaz Martínez Translation: J. West Photographs: TURESPAÑA Archives Layout: Objetivo Directo ,S.L. Printed by: EGRAF, S.A. D. L.: M. 33330-1999 Nipo: 104-99-032-5 Printed in Spain 2nd Edition VALLADOLID 91 km Highway Autopista Motorway Autovía National CarreteraHighway nacional er Primary Regional Ctra. Red básica 1Road orden Secondary Regional Road Ctra. Red básica 2º orden Local Roadlocal Carretera AVE (High Speed Train) A.V.E. Railroad Ferrocarril Parador Parador Lodging Hostería Shrine/Monastery Santuario-Monasterio Castle Castillo Monument Monumento Historic Ruins Ruinas históricas National Park Parque Nacional Campground Camping Airport Aeropuerto World Heritage Patrimonio de laSite Humanidad 403 Manzanares el Real A-6 GUADALAJARA 607 P San Lorenzo de El Escorial N-V TRUJILLO 81 km rc be Santa Olalla Emb. de Navalcán Velada P Lagartera RÍO Navalmoralejo La Estrella O Talavera de la Reina Illescas Aranjuez 401 Fuensalida Rielves Torrijos Escalonilla Camarena Santa Cruz del Retamar Bargas P TOLEDO Ocaña RÍ Mocejón 400 Olías del Rey Villuercas 1601 502 D E Tarancón Villarrubia de Santiago 400 Villatobas Yepes Huerta de Valdecarábanos Corral de Cantos 1419 Corral de Almaguer La Guardia 301 Lillo Quintanar de la Orden Tembleque La Puebla de Almoradiel El Toboso Madridejos Consuegra T O L E D O Villafranca de los Caballeros Retuerta del Bullaque Alcázar de San Juan 420 P Guadalupe Horcajo de los Montes Emb. de Cíjara Logrosán Tomelloso N-IV RÍO Emb. de Gcía. de Sola N Herrera del Duque 310 Puebla de Don Rodrigo Daimiel Piedrabuena 430 0 19 38 Manzanares P GUA DIAN A 430 CIUDAD REAL Almagro 57 Km CARTOGRAFÍA: GCAR, S.L. Alcalá, 328 Tel. 3771941 - 28027 MADRID - AÑO 1997 P Villanueva de los Infantes Valdepeñas CÓRDOBA 135 km PUERTOLLANO 15 km JAÉN 120 km VILLARROBLEDO 33 km Rincón de Anchuras O O La Puebla San Bartolomé Almonacid de Montalbán Guadamur de las Abiertas de Toledo Polán Layos Alcaudete de la Jara San Martín San Martín Sonseca Mascaraque Mora de Montalbán de Pusa Gálvez Belvís de Orgaz la Jara Los Navalucillos Menasalbas Los Yébenes Navahermosa La Nava de Ricomalillo M O N T E S J TA Seseña Esquivias LA RODA 86 km El Puente del Arzobispo J TA P Chinchón ALBACETE 130 km Marrupe N-IV Valmojado La Torre de Esteban Hambrán El Real de Escalona San Vicente Hormigos Maqueda R ío N-III Méntrida Al r Cazalegas Emb. de Valdecañas Emb. de Bolarque Altomira 1180 he 403 502 N-V Pastrana Arganda del Rey San Martín de Valdeiglesias Navamorcuende Oropesa Emb. de Buendía H P Alcalá de Henares MADRID ta Tié Las Ventas de San Julián Emb. de Entrepeñas 320 N-II N-VI ÁVILA Almorox Navalcán 320 N-I Guadarrama Mombeltrán Río Emb. de Rosarito El Molar CUENCA 85 km P H P ZARAGOZA 257 km ARANDA DE DUERO 121 km oledo is both capital of the province with the same name, as well as capital of the Autonomous Community called Castilla-La Mancha. It is located 70 kilometers (43 miles) south of Madrid on the Autovía N-401. Although the city is small in size, it is a leading political, economic and social center, oriented primarily towards the production of its characteristic crafts and the promotion and care of its great historical, artistic, and cultural heritage. With the exception of the mountains along the southern fringe, the province, one of the largest in Spain, is a land of flat terrain devoted primarily to agriculture, livestock and light industry. It is traversed by the Tajo (Tagus) river, on the banks of which the two most important cities can be found, Talavera de la Reina and the capital itself. T View of Toledo Erected on a small hill, Toledo has a typical continental climate, cold in winter and hot in summer, although slightly tempered by the presence of the Tajo river flowing around its historic center. The months of November and February generally bring the most rainfall, though not particularly heavy, and snow is unusual. In December 1987, the UNESCO declared Toledo a World Heritage City in recognition of its uniqueness, as it is almost impossible to walk its streets without coming across an ancient mosque, a Gothic or Mudéjar church, a Romanesque or Visigothic structure, a synagogue, or a Renaissance palace. Several days are needed to visit and enjoy all of the sights of Toledo, as well as a dash of adventurous spirit to fall under the spell of the city and discover its mysteries while touring it, either in search of a well-known monument, or just exploring its winding streets without a fixed course. 1 The Moors occupied Toledo for 373 years, a relatively short period, but Toledo is known as The their influence was City of the Three Cultures, a enormous. In 1085, when name which refers to the Alfonso VI took the city Christian, Islamic, and walls with no bloodshed, Hebrew cultures that many of the Muslim coexisted during centuries inhabitants decided to stay within its walls, with the Christians and impregnating it with its own Jews. The harmony special identity. This almost between the three cultures brotherly union of traditions bore fruit as notable as the can best be seen in the School of Translators of architecture, where the Toledo, renowned for customary artistic styles of having recuperated part of each one are interwoven, classical culture from exchanging influences and various Arab documents. forming hybrids with their The Islamic legacy faded own personalities. The with time, and the Catholic Mudéjar style, a mixture of Monarchs, Ferdinand and Islamic and Christian styles, Isabella, expelled the Jews predominates in the city, in the 15th century. combining principally However, the cultural mix Romanesque structures and in the city had been typical Islamic elements. determined and can still be Although one of the most felt today. With the popular legends refers to crowning of Charles V in Hercules as the founder of 1519, Toledo became the the city, the fact is that most important city in the Rome conquered a world, known as the stronghold of villages in Imperial Capital. 190 B.C. and gave it the In 1561, Philip II decided name of Toletum. A very to move the court to important town developed while Christianity took hold Madrid, initiating a period around the first century, of political decline, but remaining until the present fortunately it had no effect The Baptism of Christ by El Greco, Hospital of Tavera day and maintaining, for on religious, artistic or better or worse, the Grecocultural aspects. It was Latin cultural legacy. right at this time when In the year 569, after the fall of the Roman Empire at the Domenico Theotocopoulos, El Greco, the extraordinary painter born in Crete, decided to settle in the city and paint hands of peoples from the North of Europe, Leovigildo, the majority of his universally acclaimed works of art. King of the Visigoths, established his court in Toledo. In 589, it became the political and religious capital of Hispania, after the abandonment of Arianism and conversion to Catholicism by the Visigothic king Recaredo. Although dating from old, the Jewish presence was not pronounced until 712, the year in which the Moors conquered the city. Historical Background 2 3 ITINERARIES IN THE CITY Practical details: Visitors who so desire may engage the services of professional tourist guides at the Information Office located at the Puerta de Bisagra gate. Admission to state-run museums is free to citizens of the European Union age 65 and older, retired persons, and children under 18. Admission is also free to everyone on Saturday afternoon and Sunday morning. Churches are generally closed except for worship services. During Holy Week, they are open all day. ITINERARY I Rising beyond the walls of the city is the Hospital of Tavera (1), a grand Renaissance edifice erected by the architects Bustamante, Covarrubias, and Berruguete; the latter being responsible for the magnificent doorway and the tomb of Cardinal Tavera, founder of the hospital. Presently a museum, it recreates the ambience of the period and also houses paintings by El Greco, Ribera and Zurbarán, among others. Of particular interest are the courtyard, the aforementioned tomb, and the pharmacy, restored to its original form. After visiting the museum, we continue walking towards the ramparts, and after passing the Tourist Office on our right, we come to the Puerta de Bisagra (2), the gate providing the main access to the city. Moorish in origin, it consists of two round structures with a central courtyard. It was remodeled during the reign GRAL. MOSCARDÓ ales ision Alféreces Prov MIGUEL D E la Pa lo Pa Lu z C. de la Plata C. Car Trinidad H. de S. Gines so Las Gaitanas án Real 3 la Puerta de Valmardón de A Cr rrabal is t o C. sas 2 Ca lle de C. es A za C. la Perala ca n o Potr A. Pala o ej Vi Pl. o Pala Amador de nci Plaza de los Ríos Nu Arzob San Vicente del AL izos Igl. de rt Pl.Juan e b o C F IL ER de Mariana Pl. Sta. S. Vicente ITO Monasterio de Clara Palacio de S San Pedro Mártir Pl. de SANTIAGO Sto. Domingo Mº de Lorenzana Airo i Plaza de la Virgen NSO VI C. Espino LER MA DE Covachuelas Carreteros b Ba r OQUES A Iglesia de Sta. Justa rza Plaza de Za Antequeruela I TAV ER DE ARCE XI Pº de Merc hán 4 Corral de D. Diego Pl. de la a Trastámar Magdalena Teatro Rojas TORNER ÍAS Plaza Sixto R Mayor Pl. Cuatro Calles la Parque dos CARLOS V Cta. o p a ra Ig San 6 ci Plaza Los Alfares am D es CARSisebuto DEN AL 5 io nc na ría Ve Palacio Pl. S. Sille C. Agustín Benacazón BARRIO DE LA ANTEQUERUELA UNIÓN er DUQ UE L P om DE 1 a Hond C. Llano OS C. L SABIO E o L A. X E LL lan Arco de la Sangre Fe C. Sta. z. ARMAS le G Z ÑE CA L R ío 7 Casa de la Cultura NÚ lle Ca s CALLE C e lo r ra f Mi de Pl. o rr Honda Ce GRANADAL Estación de Autobuses C. de Gerardo retas L Puerta de Doce Cantos de DE Lobo Pº del Mira dero Z RONDA C. Concepción T A RV CE Convento de la Concepción Franciscana Pl. de la Concepción Puerta de Bisagra of Charles V, when the coat of arms, depicting the huge two-headed eagle with the imperial shield, was placed over the arch, a privilege granted Toledo by the emperor. Straight ahead is the street called Calle Real del Arrabal and almost immediately on our right is the Church of Santiago del Arrabal (3), called the Mudéjar Cathedral at times because it is one of the best examples of this particular style of architecture. Although the actual date of construction is unknown, it was probably rebuilt during the reign of Alfonso VI using the remains of an Arab mosque, easily deduced by the free-standing tower, reminiscent of a minaret. Continuing on up the same street veering to the left, we come to the Puerta del Sol (4), one of the most celebrated gates in Toledo. Mudéjar in style, it was built in the 13th century by the Knights Hospitaler and contains elements not usually associated with this style, such as the remains of an early Christian sarcophagus or a small classical bust. After passing beneath the arch, further ahead on the Calle Carretas, we come to another more simple gate called Puerta de los Alarcones. Through the gateway and crossing Calle Venancio González, we arrive at the Paseo del Miradero. From here, we have a magnificent view of the fertile plain in the distance. Continuing up Calle Venancio González, we come to the Plaza de Zocodover (5). A busy triangular-shaped plaza, originally called Suk-aldawad or “market of the beasts”, it is still a vital center of city life dating from the Moorish period. Framed partially with arcaded buildings, it once hosted festivals, as well as official and popular events. At the other side of the 5 plaza is the Cuesta de Carlos V which leads to the Alcázar (6), a fortress that once was the imperial residence and later became a military museum and regional library. It is perched on the highest point of the city, the place where all the forts have been built since the Roman era. The present citadel is a reconstruction of the original building designed by the architects Covarrubias and Herrera for Charles V which was nearly destroyed by various fires and practically demolished during the Spanish Civil War of 1936. Of particular interest are the north facade, the large central courtyard, and the imperial staircase or staircase of honor. View of the Alcázar 6 Extending from the eastern facade of the Alcázar, the oldest one with remains of the original castle, a terrace lookout allows us to see over the walls and offers a splendid view of the narrow valley the river Tajo forms while encircling the city. Down and to the left, we have the Alcántara bridge and the San Servando castle; opposite are the remains of the Artificio Juanelo, a curious 16th century device invented to bring water from the river to the fortress, and to the right, the bases of the pillars used to support an ancient Roman aqueduct long ago. At the foot of the south facade of the Alcázar, and in one of the most labyrinthian corners of the city on the Calle San Miguel, is the Church of San Miguel. Some of the construction dates from the 13th century, the rest was built at a later date. The Mudéjar tower is of interest. Continuing with our tour, we skirt around the Alcázar through the lookout area until we arrive at the Calle Alféreces Provisionales. We then proceed along this street until we reach some steps going down to the right which lead to a small square preceding the intersection of Calle Cervantes and Calle de la Concepción. Here we find the group of buildings forming the Hospital of Santa Cruz (7), the Convent of Santa Fe and the Franciscan Convent of the Concepción, constructed over what were once the Moorish palaces of Aliana which no longer exist. The Franciscan convent of La Concepción is an institution devoted to religious seclusion. The Convent of Santa Fe (not open to visitors) forms a unit with the Hospital (Museum of Santa Cruz).It contains the famous 11th century Caliphal-style Belén chapel, and the tomb of Fernán Pérez, adorned with 13th century Moorish stalactite plasterwork. The Hospital of Santa Cruz was a home for foundlings and orphans under the Museum of Santa Cruz patronage of Queen Isabella. Construction was begun by the Egas brothers and finished by Covarrubias in 1524, achieving one of the most brilliant examples of the Plateresque style and is the artist’s masterpiece. Particularly notable are the splendid main doorway, the three doorways of the vestibule, the noble cloister, and the imposing staircase connecting the two stories of the building. The museum is divided into three sections: the fine arts area with paintings by El Greco and others, the archeological section with Roman mosaics and other pieces, and a third devoted to decorative arts. 7 After leaving the museum, to our right we find the Arco de la Sangre or Arch of Blood, a Moorish gate rebuilt after the Spanish Civil War. Upon passing through it, we find ourselves once again at the Plaza de Zocodover, the end of this first walking tour. -Hospital of Tavera. Calle Cardenal Tavera, 2. w 925 22 04 51. Open: 10:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m..and 3:30 p.m. to 6 p.m. -Alcázar. Cuesta de Carlos V, 2. w 925 22 30 38. Open: 9.30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Museum of Santa Cruz. Calle Cervantes 3. w 925 22 10 36. Fax 925 22 58 62. Open: 10 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Sunday 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Closed Monday from 2 to 4 p.m. Plaza de Zocodover 8 ITINERARY II Starting at the Plaza de Zocodover, and going down the Calle del Comercio and then Calle del Hombre de Palo, in the old quarter of the city where the guilds once thrived, we arrive at the Plaza del Ayuntamiento where the Cathedral (8) stands majestically. It is the Cathedral Primate of Spain and one of the most extraordinary monuments in Spain and the world. The visit is divided into two parts: the church proper, and the sacristy and chapel of San Juan which are part of the Cathedral museum. Although construction began in 1226, the Cathedral was not finished until the end of the 15th century, undergoing numerous changes and additions after the completion of the building. As a result, although essentially Gothic in style, the Cathedral is an extraordinary structure where many different architectural styles and exceptional artists converge; artists such as Master Martín, Petrus Petri, Enrique Egas, Berruguete, Pedro and Juan Guas, Narciso Tomé, Rodrigo Alemán, Villalpando and many others. The building has a basilica ground plan Cathedral with a central nave and double aisles. Although there are numerous outstanding elements, we will only name a few. All the exterior doors are handsome, but the most notable is the main doorway. This entrance consists of three doors: the Door of Hell, Door of Pardon and Door of Judgement. Above the main door is a sculptural group depicting the Last Supper. Two towers add the finishing touches to the facade, one topped by a Flamboyant-Gothic spire and the other by a Gothic-Renaissance dome. In the interior we find the choir, set in the center of the main nave with magnificent carved choir stalls; the main chapel and the splendid Late Gothic high altar; the ambulatory, a model for other churches; the spectacular Baroque Transparente sculpture behind the high altar; and numerous smaller chapels, such as the Corpus Christi chapel, where they still celebrate mass according to ancient Mozarab rites; the chapels of San Ildefonso, Santiago and Reyes Nuevos, to mention a few. The sacristy in the Cathedral museum houses various paintings by Raphael, Rubens, Velázquez, Goya, Titian and others, in addition to one of the greatest paintings by El Greco, El Expolio (The Disrobing of Christ), as well as other works by the artist. Visitors can also see a collection of inimitable miniature codices, clerical vestments, and the Cathedral treasure which includes the famous processional monstrance by Arfe, an elaborate work in gold and silver with precious stones weighing more than 200 kilos. 9 Leaving the Cathedral, we find ourselves in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, and almost directly in front, we see the Archbishop’s palace, an austere Renaissance building. To the left is the Ayuntamiento or Town Hall (9), also Renaissance in style, begun by Herrera and finished off by Jorge Manuel Theotocopoulos, son of El Greco, with two corner towers with Baroque spires. Towards our left is Calle Santa Isabel which takes us Cathedral sacristy to Santa Isabel de los Reyes (10), a cloistered convent dating from 1477. The church is usually open all year round, making it convenient to visit and to admire the main altarpiece. The convent also includes the Church of San Antolín and the palaces of Toledo and Ayala which preserve an interesting GothicMudéjar doorway with Caliphal influences. Next to the convent, we find the palace of the king Don 10 Pedro, a private home with huge wooden doors incrusted with wrought iron spheres, as well as the palace of Suer Téllez of Meneses, now a seminary. In the nearby Plaza de San Andrés is the Church of San Andrés (11), one of the most interesting structures in Toledo. Its main body, from the 12th or 13th century, is Mudéjar and the sanctuary is Late Gothic. It has both Visigothic and Moorish elements, as well as a lovely altarpiece. It is microcosm of the diversity in the city. Retracing our steps towards the apse of the Church of Santa Isabel, we now descend by the steep Calle Sola until we reach the Carrera de San Sebastián where the Church of San Sebastián stands. Although presently closed, it preserves the architectural structure of the mosque it once was. Proceeding a little further, we detour on the Paseo de la Incurnia and come to the banks of the river Tajo. Going upstream, we can stroll along a path where we occasionally spot a fisherman. Straight ahead is the Casa del Diamantista (Diamond Merchant’s House), one of the most typical houses in Toledo, now a School of Arts and Crafts. We now go right up the Calle Bajada del Barco until we reach the Town Hall Carrera de San Sebastián again, opposite the Late Gothic convent of San Pablo. Proceeding on the same street of Carrera de San Sebastián for a short while, we come to San Lucas (12), a group of buildings of uncertain age, but undoubtedly the oldest of the Mozarabic churches in Toledo. Its great plasticity H. de Iglesia de Sta. Justa ar nd as a Pº. C S. Luc to Jus Cta. S. Alcahoz nzo 0 O RC Pl. de BA Pl. de la Retama los Tintes re rro Pa 8 Casa del Diamantista Barco de Pasaje Pa se o AM AR G O ZO PO DE L o er ad eg Pl . C SANTA CATALINA Seminario Palacio de Suer Palacio del Téllez de Meneses Pl. Sta. Rey D. Pedro Pl. de S. Andrés Isabel 11 10 9 DE a. St lv a án do r i SAN C de S O .L C. C. A. Palacio o Pl. Sta. Isa ej Vi bel Plaza de Amador de io Palacio la San Vicente los Ríos unc S.M Arzobispal C. Sola Pl. Sta. N Catalina Iglesia de Tri Igl. de arc Pl. del A n s os ida Ayuntamiento izo S. Vicente . X Pl.Juan rt San Sebastián e b o rra d C EL de Mariana Pa Pl. Sta. SA Palacio de GO Cristo de la B Clara la Lorenzana IO u S. Marcos s Pl. de Úr Pl. Cerro de . Domingo Mº de Monasterio de Sta. Clara los Melojas Las Gaitanas SE BA ST IÁN Pa Pl. Cuatro Calles 12 Pl. S. Lucas ande la P. S. Ju Iglesia deFundación C San Justo Ortega Conv. de y Gasset Pl. San San Pablo Justo L a Cjón. de rí e p DE Tri AD A BAJ S. Lo ón Pl. de las Plaza Sixto Ram S. Pedro Fuentes Mayor lo 14 13 Miguel C. CISNEROS TORNERÍAS S. Gines C. de la Plata S ALFILERITO GRAL. MOSCARDÓ Pascual es Sa Locum n ales ision Alféreces Prov MIGUEL D E o rci C. Co la me Corral de Pl. de la D. Diego a Magdalena Trastámar Teatro Rojas . Lu z CARLOS V Cta. C la ia E ARCE Igl. de San Miguel rnia Incu l P CA BE ST RE RO S la S il D de Pl. S. Agustín a e rí UNIÓN EO E LA CANDELARIA el CALLE Arco de sa de la Sangre Fe ultura C. Sta. z. ARMAS PAS Puerta de Doce Cantos Z AN RV CE vento ncepción iscana Pl. de la Concepción C. Concepción and beauty, the graceful Mudéjar tower, and various Gothic paintings merit our attention. Going up Calle de San Lucas and Calle de San Juan de la Penitencia while enjoying a view of the city, we come to an ancient Franciscan convent. A little further along on the left, we can see the doorway of the school for poor young Mezquita de las Tornerías maidens of San Juan de la Penitencia, the only vestige remaining of the original Isabelline Gothic building, presently used as the headquarters of the Ortega and Gasset Foundation. A little further ahead on the same street and then to the left, we come out at the Plaza de San Justo and the Church of San Justo. Mainly Baroque in style, the church was originally Mudéjar, the style preserved by the apse and the lovely chapel of Corpus Christi. Through the plaza we continue on the Calle Sixto Ramón Parro until we reach the walls of the Cathedral and, to the right, we find ourselves before the Posada de la Hermandad (13). The building was constructed during the reign of the Catholic Monarchs, whose matrimony produced the union of Castile and Aragón and the birth of the 12 kingdom of Spain at the end of the 15th century. The posada or inn served as both a prison and the headquarters of an organization devoted to hunting down evil doers, The Holy Brotherhood. The jails, courtyards and meeting room have been preserved. -Cathedral and Cathedral Museum. Calle Arco de Palacio. w 925 22 22 41. Fax 925 25 34 00. Open: 10:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 3:30 to 6 p.m. (Summer until 7 p.m.). -Posada de la Hermandad. Calle Hermandad, 6. w 925 21 41 50. Exhibit room open: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 8 p.m. Closed Sunday and Monday. -Mezquita de las Tornerías. Calle de las Tornerías, 21. w 925 25 32 54. Open: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 8 p.m. Continuing on up the same street and crossing the Plaza Mayor, with the Rojas Theater to our right, we arrive at Calle de las Tornerías, and a little further on the left, we find the mezquita de las Tornerías (14). The ground floor displays part of a Roman castéllum aquae, an ancient water supply system, and the upper floor, the remains of a mosque. Four centrally placed columns separate and support the nine small vaults. It is uncertain whether it was built prior to the conquest of the city by Alfonso VI. Presently, it is used as the Promotional Center for Handicrafts from Castilla-La Mancha, a place where monographic exhibits are held. ITINERARY III Starting our walk at the Cathedral, we proceed on the Calle de La Trinidad until we reach the intersection of the streets of El Salvador, Santo Tomé, and Taller del Moro. The old Jewish quarter or Judería begins here, the area once occupied by the Jewish population of Toledo. Backing up to the aforementioned intersection is the Church of El Salvador, formerly an ancient mosque built in 1041. Further down is the Taller del Moro (15), a 16th century building used as a workshop by the artisans sculpting the marble for the Cathedral. The workshop is one of the best examples of civil Mudéjar architecture in Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes 13 El Greco House-museum Toledo and is presently used as a museum for Moorish and Mudéjar applied arts. Down and around the corner to the right, forming the same block is the Fuensalida palace, today the headquarters of the presidency of the Communities Council of Castilla-La Mancha, as well as the Church of Santo Tomé (16). Originally a 12th century mosque, the church has a magnificent 14th century Mudéjar tower with some Visigothic elements on the doorway, but the main attraction is 14 the renowned painting by El Greco, “Burial of the Count of Orgaz”, considered one of the greatest masterpieces of all times. Calle de Taller del Moro leads to Paseo del Tránsito, an avenue with one of the few garden areas in the city. We turn right on to the Calle de Samuel Leví and come to the El Greco House-museum (17), an elegant and spacious edifice with special attention given to details and furnishings of the period of El Greco. It also houses works by the celebrated painter, as well as by other artists, such as Murillo and Valdés Leal. A short distance away from the El Greco’s Housemuseum and on the same street of Calle de Samuel Leví is El Tránsito synagogue (18), also a Sephardic museum. Built around 1357, it contains the finest Mudéjar coffered ceiling of all Toledo and walls decorated with plaster tracery, some with Hebrew inscriptions, and the shield of Castille encased in intertwining stems, flowers and leaves. The museum exhibits various Sephardic pieces, the majority of them related to worship. Proceeding down the Calle de los Reyes Católicos, a continuation of Calle de Samuel Leví, and to the left of Plaza de Barrio Nuevo is a small side street leading to the recently reopened Victorio Macho Housemuseum. It is located on the cliff called Roca Tarpeya where criminals were hurled off centuries ago. A little further along, we find the Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca (19), built or rebuilt in the 12th century. It is also characteristic of the Mudéjar style in Toledo, with a central nave and double aisles sloping towards the exterior, plaster tracery and horseshoe arches. A little ahead on the left, behind the School of Applied Arts and Crafts, rises the imposing Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes (20), the masterpiece of Juan Guas. It is a typical example of Flamboyant Gothic architecture and the last great building of this style in Toledo. Its construction was ordered by the Catholic Monarchs. Notable in the interior are the church, with its superb decoration, and the cloister, with its lovely carvings in R LE CAL ca Leo LA dia AV D LS XE tín A. ar o ej Vi la S de YE XI I A. Palacio ja 20 RE Cuesta del Al .d e S. M la AB IO 22 io nc Nu de Lu z Pl. Sta. Mº de ClaraIgl. de Sta. Clara S. Vicente Ba Pº Baño de la Cava la ALFIL S LO C. Las Gaitanas Palacio de Cta. Sta. C. de la Lorenzana Plaza de San Vicente C SAN G. de la Vega Pl. de a ol Nuev Iglesia de Casa de eg Pl. MARTÍN Padilla n ó . r Mesa Amador de Sta. Justa d mb Plaza de Convento de Pl. de la e los Ríos S Ca D Palacio de . o S. Román San Clemente Gines Virgen de nce te la Cava Ro llas Gracia en Pl. S. Juan m án Pl.Juan lem de losReyes Cav C C. a de Mariana P S. Bu Monasterio de H. de la s Vie San Pedro Mártir Trinidad Plaza de ja s San Martín C. o on s DE C. Alf Escuela de L Á Palacio NG E Pl. S. Artes y Oficios C. Arzobispal L Antonio S. Marcos Sto. TO Pl. de el Pl. del MÉ Salvador S ta El . Ayuntamiento C. CIS Sa Ana lv a d Plaza del Iglesia de or Palacio de Bº Nuevo Fuensalida oro El Salvador St M a. Plaza de los Museo n a Victorio JUDERÍA Ju Alamillos del Transito . Macho S S. Z a C. DE L EA San nd Pl. de la Merced La 15 s rco T istobal aller de l lzos L Pl. Sta. Isabel DE CT Cristo de S.Leví la su Úr OS 18 Pº D EL TRÁNSITO C. L IC de i 17 Sta. Isabel D io s a TÓ CA e rí 16 Ma Jud 19 21 Puerta de Valmardó D CE ER M Ro Pl. de Sto. Domingo Buzones el Real izos Convento Carmelitas O Descalzas E S PA de DE Consejerías Castilla-La Mancha SANTIAGO isto Cobert Basílica A. la 23 G Aljib es e la de ida Sub Diputación stone. Our attention is also drawn to the chains hanging from the exterior walls, shackles of the Christians freed from slavery in the wars with the Moors. After leaving the monastery and continuing along the Calle de los Reyes Católicos, to our left we come to the Calle de los Alamillos de San Martín -Taller del Moro. Calle Taller del Moro, 3. w 925 22 45 00. Open: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 to 6:30 p.m. Closed Mondays and Sunday afternoon. -Church of Santo Tomé. Plaza del Conde, 1. w 925 25 60 98. Open: 10 a.m. to 5:45 p.m. (Summer until 6:45 p.m.). -El Greco House-museum. Calle de Samuel Leví, s/n. w 925 22 40 46. Fax 925 22 45 59. Open: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 to 6 p.m. Closed Mondays and Sunday afternoon. -El Tránsito Synagogue and Sephardic Museum. Calle de Samuel Leví. w 925 22 36 65. Fax 925 21 58 31. Open: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 to 6 p.m. Closed Mondays and Sunday afternoon. -Synagogue of Santa María la Blanca. Calle de los Reyes Católicos, 4. w 925 22 72 57. Open: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 3:30 to 6 p.m. (Summer until 7 p.m.). -San Juan de los Reyes. Calle Reyes Católicos, 17. w 925 22 38 02. Open: 10 a.m. to 1:45 p.m. and 3:30 to 6 p.m. (Summer until 7 p.m.). 16 which takes us to the bridge of San Martín (21); built in the 13th century, it is one of the few that still preserves its two defensive towers. Going down to the banks of the river and following the direction of the current, we come to the Baño de la Cava, a solitary tower that used to be the entrance to a bridge built in the 12th century. Returning to the Plaza de San Martín, we should take the Paseo de la Ronda Nueva along the walls to reach the Puerta del Cambrón (22), originally a gate from Visigothic times, although its present aspect dates from 1576, making it Renaissance in style. The arch is adorned with a large coat of arms, and the small towers are topped by spires. Leaving the walled area behind and zigzagging down a path and crossing the road at the pedestrian bridge, we come to Cristo de la Vega (23), a Mudéjar hermitage situated next to the archeological remains of the basilica of Santa Leocadia, a burial place for a large number of Visigothic kings. ITINERARY IV Starting at the Puerta del Cambrón and walking down the Paseo de Recaredo to our right, we can enjoy a long walk along one of the best preserved sections of the city walls. The next stop is the old Bisagra gate or Puerta de Alfonso VI (24), dating from 838 and one of the purest Moorish constructions. On the other side, we find a small square and proceed up on Calle de Alfonso VI to the Church of Santiago del Arrabal. Shortly, we reach the Calle Real del Arrabal and proceed along this street until we find the Calle del Cristo de la Luz on our right. We go through the Puerta de Valmardón, a 10th century Moorish gate and to the left, protected by wrought iron gates, we find Cristo de la Luz (25), one of the most important monuments in Toledo. Dating from 999, it is an atypical mosque with a square ground plan with the aisles and columns forming nine architectural spaces covered by caliphal vaults. In the 12th century a Romanesque-Mudéjar sanctuary was added, the only transformation the building has undergone. Unfortunately, its visiting hours are very irregular, and it is not easy to find it open. We continue walking to the end of the street of Calle del Cristo de la Luz until we come to Calle de los Alfileritos, and to our right we continue down the street until we reach the Plaza de San Vicente. Here we find the neoclassical University palace of Lorenzana, the 13th century Mudéjar Church of San Vicente, and Las Gaitanas, a cloistered convent including a church Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz 17 considered to be one of the best examples of the Toledan Baroque style. Walking through two of the Cobertizos, typical woodcovered passageways in Toledo, we reach the Plaza de Santo Domingo el Real, one of the most secluded places in the city. The square is framed by the walls of several convents, one of the most interesting being Santo Domingo del Real (26), a Baroque building with a splendid classical doorway, in former times a stopping place for kings. After crossing the Plaza de Santo Domingo el Real and proceeding on the Calle Buzones, we turn to the right and arrive at the Palacio de la Diputación, built in the 19th century. Opposite and on the top of a steep incline, we find the lovely 13th Mudéjar Church of Santa Leocadia, (27); although restored, it still preserves a Puerta de Valmardón la 25 Lu z C. de G retas C. Car CE Palacio AR Benacazón NÚÑEZ DE Aljib es Z A. AV D lle n na Ve Pl. de Sto. Domingo Buzones el Real os 26 C. DE Ca A C rrabal SANTIAGO risto de Pl. de la Merced ja Plaza Los Alfares es ca n A za de Cobert la de ida Sub Diputación DE Consejerías Castilla-La Mancha n G ra rz a DE sas a ra d Airo O ED AR C RE am p CA LA BARRIO DE ANTEQUER Plaza de Antequeruela del P l o 24 BA o Potr Real de e as ir Plaza de la Virgen O VI ONS ALF Glorieta de la Reconquista Pº Canónigos co i III C. C om LOS no Za R a TA CAR magnificent Moorish tower. Right behind the church, we find the first monastery built in Toledo, Santo Domingo el Antiguo (28), situated on the plaza of the same name and cited in different written documents as far back as 1085. It contains various artifacts of Visigothic origin, paintings by El Greco, including his tomb, as he was buried in the monastic crypt. Nearby and after crossing through the Plaza de Padilla and taking the Calle de San Román, we find the Casa de Mesa, an old palace with a Renaissance doorway; the convent of San Clemente with a Plateresque doorway by Covarrubias; the old monastery of San Pedro Mártir, and the Church of San Román (29), presently the Museum of Councils and Visigothic Culture. Visigothic in origin, San Román was later used as a mosque, but its present Pl. S. Agustín LA ía D CE ER M TORNER ÍAS LS XE A. M S. e Ba de la I XI S La m Sixto Ra YE A. Palacio ja RE a Trastámar 30 o ej Vi 29 io nc Nu ar tín San AB IO 28 . 27 C AL le r RE S il Convento Carmelitas Descalzas izos Pl. Sta. C. la S Mº de ClaraIgl. de ALFILERITO S Sta. Clara S. Vicente . LO LE ia o C Las CAL cad rci Gaitanas Leo me Palacio de G Co Cta. Sta. C. de la Plata Lorenzana Plaza de San Vicente C SAN G. de la Vega Pl. de ol Iglesia de Casa de eg Pl. MARTÍN Pl. de la Padilla n . Mesa b ró Amador de Sta. Justa Magdalen d am Plaza de Convento de Pl. de la e los Ríos S Corral Pl. Do Palacio de . Gines S. Román San Clemente Virgen de nce e D. Dieg Cuatro t la Cava Ro llas Gracia en Calles Pl. S. Juan m m án Pl.Juan le o de losReyes Cav l C C. a de Mariana Pa S. Bu Monasterio de Plaza H. de la s Vie San Pedro Mártir Trinidad Mayor Teatro a de ja s Rojas Martín C. o on s DE C. Alf Escuela de L Á Pa Palacio N Pl. S. . G Artes y Oficios EL C Arzobispal O SE PA E R G n n G a n eg a Museum of Santo Domingo appearance is Mudéjar from the 13th century. It contains elements from various styles: Caliphal arches, Roman columns, Visgothic and Mozarab capitals, and even a Byzantine one. Almost all of the walls are covered with Romanesque paintings. The museum exhibits reproductions of the famous treasure of Guarrazar, medieval codices and numerous Visigothic antiquities, including gold and silverworks. Continuing along the Calle San Román, we come to the Plaza Juan de Mariana where the huge imposing Church of San Ildefonso (30) can be seen, the best Toledan Baroque style and an excellent example of Jesuit construction. Proceeding along the Calle Alfonso X el Sabio and turning to the right to get the Calle Nuncio Viejo, we once again arrive at the Cathedral and at the end of our tour of the city of Toledo. -Santo Domingo El Antiguo. Plaza de Santo Domingo el Antiguo. w 925 22 29 30. Open: 11 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 4 to 7 p.m. Closed Sunday morning. In winter, open only holidays and weekends. -Museum of Councils and Visigothic Culture. Calle San Clemente, 4. w 925 22 78 72. Open: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 to 6:30 p.m. Closed Mondays and Sunday afternoon. 19 OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST Beyond the walls, the ruins of a Roman Circus (31) can be visited in the garden area between Cristo de la Vega and the Hospital de Tavera. The circus was one of the largest in the Roman Empire, comparable to the Circus Maximus of Rome, attesting to the importance of Toledo in ancient times. Bridge of Alcántara Also outside the walls, at the foot of the cliff of the Alcázar fortress is the Alcántara bridge (32). This bridge was built by the Romans, although later it was greatly reformed by both Arabs and Christians. It boasts a lovely Mudéjar tower. At the west end is a gate tower, the 10th century Moorish Puerta de Alcántara. Nearby and at the end of the Calle Cervantes and right next to the wall, we see the Puerta de Doce Cantos, a gate of Moorish origin. Crossing over the Tajo river, on the other side of the bridge, we have the San Servando castle (33), 20 also Moorish in origin, which was totally restored in the Mudéjar style during the 14th century and nowadays serves as a university residence and youth hostel. Within the city walls, we can visit the Casa de las Cadenas (34), presently the Museum of Contemporary Art, located on the Calle de las Bulas in the midst of the Jewish quarter. The building dates from the 16th century and is a typical example of a traditional Toledan house. The museum, on the other hand, contains works from the 19th and 20th centuries. Many other monuments are hidden among the streets of Toledo, and it would be impossible to list all of them here. It suffices to mention a few, such as the Church of Santa Justa, the Convent of the Franciscanos Descalzos or Barefoot Franciscans, today the seat of the Courts of Castilla-La Mancha, Santa Eulalia parish church, the New University, the convent of Santa Clara la Real or the Corral de Don Diego. -Museum of Contemporary Art. Calle de las Bulas, 15. w 925 22 78 71. Open: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 to 6:30 p.m. Closed Mondays and Sunday afternoon. P erhaps somewhat eclipsed by the impressive architectural assembly found in the capital, the province of Toledo boasts other towns and places of interest filled with artistic and historic treasures, as well as magnificent landscapes. The following are some of the trips we recommend. Castle in Escalona The Province 21 and the Peñas Negras castle are of interest. Ten kilometers southwest of Mora, we find the small town of Orgaz. It is said that El Cid was the first mayor of this typical Castilian town, brimming with white houses and covered with coats of arms, cobblestone streets and Toledan-style courtyards. Of special interest is the Baroque Church of Santo Tomás Apóstol, built by Churriguera, the bridge called Puente de los Cinco Ojos, and the massive well-preserved castle of the Counts of Orgaz. ITINERARY I Leave Toledo on the Ciudad Real road N-401 going southeast and turn off 3 kilometers later at the C-400. After 14 more kilometers, we find Almonacid de Toledo. The most interesting site in the town is the Moorish castle predominating over it. Six kilometers later in TOLEDO Río Tajo Almonacid de Toledo N-401 Mora Orgaz Los Yébenes C-400 Consuegra Mascaraque, there is another Moorish castle, which has been totally restored. Five kilometers further will take us to Mora, a town famous for its olives as displayed in the Olive festival held here. Its fine Gothic church Windmills in Consuegra 22 Continuing on the N-401, 8 kilometers south of Orgaz, we encounter Los Yébenes, a town traditionally engaged in hunting. It boasts two 16th century churches and a 17th palace, La Encomienda de San Juan. After traveling a total of 26 kilometers southeast, we find the typical La Mancha town of Consuegra, an important town in Roman times. Located at the foot of the hill called Cerro Calderico, there is an impressive castle boasting an exceptional keep, as well as some typical Quixotic windmills. In addition, Consuegra is home to other treasures, including the Ayuntamiento (Town Hall), the Corredores, site of the municipal museum, the large fortified tower of Casa de la Tercia, and the churches of San Juan and Santísimo Cristo de Veracruz, a museum of ancient religious votive offerings. ITINERARY II After driving northeast for 28 kilometers on the Cuenca road N-400, we take the turnoff on our right to Yepes. Here we can admire the remains of ancients walls and the splendid Church of San Benito built by Covarrubias which boasts Plateresque doorways, a Renaissance tower, and a magnificent altarpiece. Some 15 kilometers to the northeast is Ocaña, a town which is considered a model of Mudéjar architecture. Seat on various occasions of the Castilian courts, Ocaña has monuments as notable as the Baroque arcaded Plaza Mayor, the imposing monumental fountain of Fuente Grande, the Mudéjar-Gothic Church of San Juan Bautista, a former synagogue with architectural elements from the 13th to the 17th centuries, and the convents of Santo Domingo and Carmelitas Descalzas. R ío Ta jo -Consuegra Tourist Office. Molino de Viento Bolero. w 925 47 57 31. Museum, castle, windmills and other monuments are open from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4:30 to 7 p.m. (Fall and winter from 3:30 to 6 p.m.) Saturday, Sunday and holidays starting at 10:30 a.m.. to 6 p.m. (fall and winter) and 7 p.m. (spring and summer). N-400 Ocaña Yepes A-IV TOLEDO La Guardia Tembleque 23 Going south, after another 15 kilometers on the Autovía de Andalucía A-4, we arrive at La Guardia, whose surroundings are scattered with picturesque cave-dwellings called Silos. In the town center, we find the hermitage of the Santo Niño, the old Casa de la Inquisición (House of the Inquisition), and the parish Church of La Asunción. After 12 more kilometers on the same road, we come to Tembleque. Of interest here is the famed Plaza Mayor from the era of Philip IV, one of the most lovely and original, and which also houses municipal buildings. Other attractions include the Gothic-Renaissance Church of La Asunción, the Baroque Casa de las Torres, and the hermitage of Cristo del Valle, also Baroque. -Ocaña Tourist Office. Plaza Mayor. w 925 12 08 91. ITINERARY III About 27 kilometers northwest of Toledo on the Ávila road N-403 and after passing Rielves, we arrive at Torrijos, a town of great economic importance where we can admire the collegiate Church of Santísimo Sacramento, a small 16th century GothicRenaissance cathedral with a splendid doorway and a beautiful high altarpiece, as well as La Caridad hospital, and the chapel of Cristo de la Sangre. Around 12 kilometers later, we come to the little town of Maqueda, whose castle can be seen from a great distance. Also of interest are the Mudéjar Vela tower and the Rollo, a column marking municipal jurisdiction at the end of the 15th century. Escalona is our next stop, 13 kilometers to the north. The castle here is presumably second in importance in the province only to the one in Montalbán. The remains of ancient walls, the Plaza Mayor, and the convent of Almorox Escalona Maqueda Torrijos Rielves N-403 o Rí jo Ta TOLEDO 24 the Concepcionistas are other attractions. Concluding our visit, eight kilometers farther to the north, we reach Almorox, where we can admire the Plaza Mayor with the largest “Rollo” (ancient stone pillar) in the province, along with lovely municipal buildings from the 17th century. ITINERARY IV Guadamur is about 12 kilometers southwest of Toledo just off the Navahermosa road C-401. Here we find one of the most splendid restored castles, furnished in period style. Also meriting a visit are the hermitage of San Antón, now a museum of Popular Arts and Customs of the Montes de Toledo, the hermitage of Nuestra Señora de la Natividad, and the 16th century Mudéjar parish church. A little farther in Polán, there are the remains of another fortress. A little more than twenty kilometers southwest and Guadamur Castle 25 Río Tajo La Puebla de Montalbán C-403 San Martín de Montalbán Guadamur C-401 Gálvez having passed Gálvez, we turn right on the C-403 to get to San Martín de Montalbán. In the center of town, our interest is drawn to the Church of San Andrés and the Roman bridge, Puente de la Canasta. But it is a short distance to the north and still in the same township that we find two of the most important monuments in the province: the Montalbán castle and the Church of Santa María de Melque. Rising upon ancient Visigothic and Moorish forts, the Montalbán castle was built by the Knights Templar in the 12th century and is a perfect example of a medieval defensive construction. The Church of Santa María de Melque, on the other hand, is a Visigothic-Mozarabic structure from the 9th century, magnificently preserved just as it was in its period of splendor, when it was a part of a Visigothic monastic complex. It is one of the symbols of Toledo’s architectural roots. 26 TOLEDO Another twenty kilometers north takes us to La Puebla de Montalbán where we can admire its remarkable Plaza Mayor, the Dukes of Osuna’s palace with its notable Plateresque doorway, the parish Church of Virgen de la Paz, the Las Concepcionistas monastery, and the hospital of Cristo de la Caridad. -Museum of Popular Arts and Customs of the Montes de Toledo. Hermitage of San Antón. w 925 29 15 37. By appointment only. -Montalbán Castle. w 925 41 70 03. Ayuntamiento (Town Hall). Open: Saturday 8:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. Closed from February 1st to May 16th. ITINERARY V Oropesa can be found 117 kilometers west of Toledo; a total of 81 km. on the C-502 road to Talavera de la Reina, and 36 more on the A-5 Autovía. The town dates from pre-Roman times and is presided over A-V Talavera de la Reina Oropesa by the castle-palace of Álvarez de Toledo with architectural elements from the 12th and 15th century, presently a Parador. Next to it, there is another Renaissance palace, and nearby, the GothicRenaissance Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. Oropesa also has other monuments, such as the 15th century Old Town Hall and the massive Church of San Bernardo. Thirty six kilometers from Oropesa on the A-5 Autovía, we find Talavera TOLEDO C-502 Río Tajo de la Reina, the city with the largest population in the province and the most prosperous commercial and industrial center there also. Talavera de la Reina Talavera de la Reina 27 is cited in classical texts as far back as 181 B.C. with the name of Aebura. Its present name refers to Queen Mary of Portugal, wife of Alfonso XI. Especially noteworthy in Talavera are the GothicMudéjar collegiate Church of Santa María la Mayor with its lovely doorway, graceful tower, large main altarpiece and beautiful cloister, and the basilica of the Virgen del Prado, built in the 16th and 17th century, an authentic museum of the famous Talavera ceramics. Other places of interest include the Church of San Prudencio, the Plaza del Pan, and the convents of San Agustín el Viejo and Santiago el Viejo, present site of the Ruiz de Luna Museum, devoted to ceramics. El Puente del Arzobispo 28 -Talavera Tourist Office. Ronda de Cañillo. w 925 82 63 22. -Ruiz de Luna Museum. Calle de San Agustín el Viejo. w 925 80 01 49. Open: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 to 6:30 p.m. Closed Mondays and Sunday afternoon. ITINERARY VI Traveling south 13 kilometers from Oropesa on a local road, we reach El Puente del Arzobispo, a town with an important pottery tradition and which owes its name to the spectacular bridge over the Tajo river, built in the 14th century by order of Pedro Tenorio, Archbishop Primate of Toledo. About ten kilometers to the south is Navalmoralejo. Nearby, we find Ciudad de Vascos, a Moorish town probably abandoned around the 11th century for unknown reasons and which can be admired today in its entirety, one of the most important archeological finds in Spain. To the east, going through La Estrella and La Nava de Ricomalillo and taking the C-401, we TOLEDO Oropesa El Puente del Arzobispo Río Tajo C-401 Navalmoralejo La Estrella La Nava de Ricomalillo have a journey of more than 40 kilometers through the foothills of the Montes de Toledo until, after turning off to our right, we Los Navalucillos arrive at Los Navalucillos, a town near the famous natural reserve known as Los Chorros. OTHER PLACES OF INTEREST Illescas, Esquivias and Seseña are towns about 40 kilometers to the north of Toledo and very close to one another. In the first, the 16th century hospitalsanctuary of Nuestra Señora de la Caridad has several paintings by El Greco and the GothicMudéjar parish Church of La Asunción. In Esquivias, there is a house-museum devoted to Cervantes, and in Seseña, the Puñoenrostro castle was built in the 14th century. Another notable town is El Toboso, located in the southeast corner of the province, more than 100 kilometers from Toledo. The town, immortalized by Cervantes, has a housemuseum installed in a 16th century noble mansion, devoted to Dulcinea, as well as the GothicRenaissance Church of San Antonio Abad. -Hospital-sanctuary Nuestra Señora de la Caridad. Calle del Cardenal Cisneros, 2. (Illescas). w 925 54 00 35. Open: 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. and 4:30 to 6 p.m. Closed Sunday morning. -Casa Cervantes. Plaza de Cervantes, 1. (Esquivias). w 925 52 01 61. Open: 10 a.m. to 2.30 p.m. -House-museum of Dulcinea del Toboso. Calle Quijote, 1. w 925 19 72 88. Open: 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 to 6:30 p.m. Closed Mondays and Sunday afternoon. 29 HOW TO GET THERE TRANSPORTATION IN THE CITY Railway station (RENFE). Paseo de la Rosa. Toledo. w 925 22 30 99. Trains depart daily from Atocha railway station in Madrid (Glorieta de Atocha; w 91 328 90 20) for Toledo about every two hours, starting at 7:05 a.m. until 8:40 p.m. The trip takes approximately one hour and a half. Bus station. Avenida de Castilla-La Mancha. Toledo. w 925 21 58 50. Buses depart daily every 30 minutes for Toledo from the Bus Station in Madrid (Méndez Álvaro. w 91 468 45 11), starting at 5:30 a.m. until 10 p.m. The trip takes approximately one hour. Toledo is the perfect city to tour on foot. All of its monuments, museums and places of interest are close to one another, and long distances are not a problem. However, comfortable shoes are a must since many streets are made of stones and cobblestones, and walking can be tedious. LODGING There is one Parador with a four-star rating in Toledo at the Cerro del Emperador. w 925 22 18 50; Fax 925 22 51 66. From its terrace, you can enjoy a magnificent and privileged view of the monumental city. The city has more than ample hotel accommodations available to visitors; three four-star hotels, six threestar hotels, and numerous modest establishments, including various campgrounds. For more information, contact the Spanish Tourist Office or any travel agency. 30 Public Parking: El Corralillo (behind the Alcázar fortress). Private Parking: In the historic quarter of Toledo, parking is controlled by the O.R.A. and tickets are dispatched from machines. In addition, private garages are listed below: El Miradero on Calle Gerardo Lobo; Garaje Alcázar on Calle del General Moscardó, 8; Garaje Santo Tomé on Calle de Santa Ursula, 3 and Garaje Toledo on Calle del Instituto, 5. A large fleet of taxis is also available. The main stops are located at the Cuesta del Alcázar, Cuesta de la Vega, and the bus station. There is no permanent taxi stop at the railway station. Radio taxis: w 925 25 50 50. A special train, called the Tren Imperial, offers visitors a panoramic view of Toledo and a visit through some of the streets. This train runs everyday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 4 to 6 p.m. The trip takes approximately 50 minutes. CUISINE Toledo is the leading Spanish province in small game hunting and one of the richest for large game also. Garden vegetables should also be mentioned because of their variety and quality. Toledan cuisine, with a very rich culinary tradition in the past, is once again becoming a force to contend with, thanks to the excellent ingredients available. A typical Toledan speciality is perdiz estofada (braised partridge), but there are many other dishes, such as sopa castellana (a type of garlic soup), pisto manchego (a medley of chopped tomatos, zucchini, green peppers usually accompanied with eggs), migas (fried breadcrumbs seasoned with garlic and paprika), trucha a la toledana (trout Toledo-style), cochifrito de cordero (lamb stew), tortilla a la magra (omelette with lean ham), cordoniz a la toledana (quail Toledo-style), venado con setas (venison with mushrooms) or jabalí (boar), to mention a few. The cheese of the region is also exceptional. The renowned Manchego cheese, whether made purely from sheep’s milk, mixed with cow’s milk, or cured in oil, is always appetizing. Sweetlovers will find it hard to resist one of Toledo’s prize-winning delights, marzipan. With regards to wine, two regional varieties with appellation d’origin: La Mancha - whites, rosés, clarets and reds; and Méntrida - full-bodied wines, fruity wines, reds and rosés, are perfect with meals or anytime. 31 Ceramics HANDICRAFTS Toledo’s craft tradition in metalworking is legendary. Swords, daggers, suits of armor, wrought iron grating, locks, furniture, and decorative items continue preserving the quality that have made them world famous. Ceramics and pottery are two crafts that have seen their popularity increase from the 16th century to the present-day. Polychrome and glazed ceramics with both naturalistic and geometric shapes from the region of Talavera and El Puente del Arzobispo are well-known for their excellent quality. Other crafts include the art of damascene, a technique consisting of inlaying gold or silver threads in inferior metals forming figures or patterns in keeping with the artist’s imagination; embroidery, which is especially noteworthy in 32 the town of Lagartera, famous for its fine embroidered linens and tablecloths, as well as excellent leatherwork. LEISURE ACTIVITIES AND SPECIAL EVENTS To find out about the different activities that can be enjoyed in Toledo and its province, consult the local newspaper or a bulletin published by the Delegación Provincial de la Consejería de Educación y Cultura which can be obtained at Tourist Offices. But one place that deserves to be highlighted on Toledo’s cultural scene is the Rojas Theater, a 19th century building located on the Plaza Mayor which serves at times as a musical auditorium, a theater, or movie house, depending on the program. Toledo has the greatest concentration of bars and nightspots on Calle Alfileritos, the Plaza de Zocodover and adjacent streets, as well as outside the walls in the district known as Santa Teresa. On the other hand and as previously mentioned, the province of Toledo ranks high in abundance of fish and game. The most common species of large game are deer, boar and roe deer; and for small game, partridge, quail, hare, rabbit and ringdove. The Montes de Toledo is the mountain area with the greatest concentration of game. In regards to fishing, carp, red mullet, bogue, and tench are the most common. For more information concerning game preserves and licenses, contact: Federación Regional de Caza (Regional Hunting Federation). Calle del Comercio, 22. w 925 22 42 63. Federación Regional de Pesca (Regional Fishing Federation). Travesía Mas de Ribero, 13. w 925 22 65 38. POPULAR FESTIVALS The festival or fiesta of Corpus Christi in Toledo, declared of international interest to the tourist, has been held on the Sunday of the ninth week after Holy Week for the last eight centuries. Presided over by the archbishop primate himself, it is a spectacular procession displaying the monumental monstrance by Arfe, among other treasures. Houses are also adorned for the occasion with antique fabrics from the medieval weavers’ guilds, and the ground is covered with flowers and fragrant herbs. The entire city bends over backwards for the occasion. Other important festivals are: Danzantes y Pecados (Dancers and Sinners) in the town of Camuñas, the same day as Corpus Christi; the celebration of the Rosa del Azafrán in Consuegra, the last Sunday of October; and the Olive festival in Mora de Toledo, the last Sunday in April. All of them have been declared of interest to the tourist. Corpus Christi Festival 33 ADDRESSES AND TELEPHONE NUMBERS OF INTEREST Telephone dialing code: International: 34 TOURIST INFORMATION TURESPAÑA w 901 300 600 www.tourspain.es Directorate General of Tourism, Trade and Handicrafts Calle Río Estenilla, s/n. Polígono Industrial Santa María de Benquerencia. 45071-Toledo. w 925 26 78 00. Fax 925 26 78 74 Tourist Board Plaza del Ayuntamiento, 1. w 925 25 40 30 LOCAL TOURIST OFFICES: Toledo: Puerta de Bisagra. w 925 22 08 43 Consuegra: w 925 47 57 31 Ocaña: Plaza Mayor. w 925 12 08 91 Talavera: Ronda del Cañillo. w 925 82 63 22 TRANSPORATION: Renfe: Paseo de la Rosa. Toledo. w 925 22 30 99 Buses: Avenida de Castilla-La Mancha. Toledo. w 925 21 58 50 Taxis: w 925 25 50 50 Traffic Information: Highway Information: w 900 123 505 Civil Guard Traffic Information: w 925 22 08 29 POSTAL AND OTHER SERVICES: Post Office and Telegrams: Calle de la Plata, 1. Toledo. w 925 22 36 11 USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS Red Cross: w 925 21 60 60; Hospital Emergencies: w 061; National Police: w 091; Municipal Police: w 092; Citizen Information: w 010 PARADORS: Central Reservation Office: Calle Requena, 3. 28013-Madrid. w 91 516 66 66. Fax 91 516 66 57. www.parador.es Toledo: Cerro del Emperador. w 925 22 18 50. Fax 925 22 51 66 Oropesa: Plaza del Palacio, 1. w 925 43 00 00. Fax 925 43 07 77 SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES ABROAD Canada. Toronto. Tourist Office of Spain. 2 Bloor Street West, 34th floor. Toronto, Ontario M4W 3E2. w 1(416) 961 3131. Fax 1(416) 961 1992 E-mail: [email protected] Great Britain. London. Spanish Tourist Office. 22-23 Manchester Square. London W1M5AP. w 44171/ 486 80 77. Fax 44171/ 486 80 34 E-mail: [email protected] Japan. Tokyo. Tourist Office of Spain. Daini Toranomon Denki Bldg. 4F. 3-1-10 Toranomon. Minato-Ku. Tokyo-105. w 813/ 34 32 61 41-42. Fax 813/ 34 32 61 44 E-mail: [email protected] United States of America Los Angeles. Tourist Office of Spain. 8383 Wilshire Blvd. Suite 960. Beverly Hills, California 90211. w 1(323) 658 7188. Fax 1(323) 658 1061 E-mail: [email protected] Chicago. Tourist Office of Spain. Water Tower Place, Suite 915 East. 845 North Michigan Avenue. Chicago, Illinois 60611. w 1(312) 642 1992. Fax 1(312) 642 9817 E-mail: [email protected] Miami. Tourist Office of Spain. 1221 Brickell Avenue. Miami, Florida 33131. w 1(305) 358 1992, Fax 1(305) 358 8223 E-mail: [email protected] New York. Tourist Office of Spain. 666 Fifth Avenue, 35th floor, New York, NewYork 10103. w 1(212) 265 8822. Fax 1(212) 265 8864 E-mail: [email protected] EMBASSIES IN MADRID Canada. Calle Nuñez de Balboa, 35. w 91 431 43 00. Fax 91 431 23 67 Great Britain. Calle Fernando el Santo, 16. w 91 319 02 00. Fax 91 308 10 33 Japan. Calle Serrano, 109. w 91 590 76 00. Fax 91 590 13 21 United States. Calle Serrano, 75. w 91 587 22 00. Fax 91 587 23 03 36 TALAVERA DE LA REINA 80 km LA LA AV. CA S GRANADAL . C O eo Pas de S ST BE CA DE ia el 200 m CARTOGRAFÍA: GCAR, S.L. Alcalá, 328 Tel. 3771941 - 28027 MADRID - AÑO 1997 P Parador P Parking Bus Station la 100 P Railway Station Casa del Diamantista TAJO Tourist Information Office Police Excavaciones Arqueologicas "Cerro del Bú" 0 RÍO 24.-Puerta de Alfonso VI 25.-Mezquita del Cristo de la Luz 26.-Convento de Santo Domingo el Real 27.-Iglesia de Santa Leocadia 28.-Monasterio de Santo Domingo el Antiguo 29.-Iglesia de San Román. Museo de los Concilios y de la Cultura Visigoda 30.-Iglesia de San Ildefonso Telephones N RC Pl. de la Retama SE BA ST IÁN 15.-Taller del Moro 16.-Iglesia de Santo Tomé 17.-Casa-museo de El Greco 18.-Sinagoga del Transito y museo Sefardí 19.-Sinogoga de Santa María la Blanca 20.-Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes 21.-Puente de San Martín 22.-Puerta del Cambrón 23.-Ermita del Cristo de la Vega Post Office PASEO Sta. Isabel s rco Ma C. Sola S. Torcuato RE BA Barco de Pasaje In cu rn ia A. Palacio la de D esca lzos Talle r de Pº S. Cistobal l Pº los RO TORNER ÍAS AB LS XE I XI s io D de C. Concepción ARMAS Aljib es NÚÑEZ DE A. AV D tín ar Cuesta del Al .d e S. M A. a nd Ro IO L Pº ARGES 6 km 12 DE Pl. de los Tintes ITINERARY IV UNIÓN AD A SAN ITINERARY III CONVENTIONAL SIGNS Miguel B AJ o er ad eg Pl C. A SANTA CATALINA 8.-Catedral 9.-Ayuntamiento 10.-Convento de Santa Isabel de los Reyes 11.-Iglesia de San Andrés 12.-Iglesia de San Lucas 13.-Posada de la Hermandad 14.-Mezquita de las Tornerías i as Pl. S. Lucas Conv. de San Pablo 1.-Hospital de Tavera 2.-Puerta de Bisagra 3.-Iglesia de Santiago del Arrabal 4.-Puerta del Sol 5.-Plaza de Zocodover 6.-Alcázar 7.-Hospital de Santa Cruz 31.- Roman Circus 32.-Alcántara bridge 33.-San Servando castle 34.-Casa de las Cadenas. Museum of Contemporary Art S. Luc C ITY ITINERARY II 0THER PLACES OF INTEREST ande la P. C ZO PO EN DE n L rra Pa 11 Pl. de S. Andrés Palacio de Suer Téllez de Meneses Iglesia de San Sebastián Seminario AM AR G O P S. Ju DE Cristo de la S.Leví la su Úr OS C. L IC BU Pl. Cerro de los Melojas CARRERAS Palacio del Rey D. Pedro Pl. Sta. Catalina Pl. S. Cipriano Ermita Virgen de la Cabeza 10 ría Cjón. de Tripe S. Lo a RA Cortes de Castilla-La Mancha Pl. del Calvario S. Pedro e rí TÓ CA 9 i 13 Sa Jud D P IE CTRA. DE Convento Gilitos 8 6 OF THE ITINERARY I 33 S TE AN RV CE La 15 17 18 CALLE Fe S 16 n mó Sixto Ra YE 19 7 CARLOS V ja RE 34 32 Cta. Ba o ej Vi 29 20 14 a Trastámar 30 io nc Nu la ía San de le r 5 C. Sta. S il izos D CE ER M 22 z. le G de 25 Cobert Basílica C-401 D P 4 la NAVAHERMOSA 19 km TIL RA AL EN RD CA CAL LE N-401 lle ORGAZ 34 km N-401 C. Llano A C rrabal SANTIAGO risto Ca io nc na Ve ja 26 28 21 EL o Plaza Los Alfares es can A za de del de n G ra 27 Baño de la Cava es rz a Real o se Pa 23 Puente de Azarquiel C. de Gerardo Lobo retas Pº del Mira C. 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Espino D es UIS BA Plaza de la Virgen 2 24 Estación de Autobuses RONDA i O VI ONS ALF s de Carreteros Parque Sisebuto Pº de Me rch án one rro n III DO RE CA E R LA b Ba r Ce a ONQ D ció iputa Glorieta de la Reconquista CA o se BARRIO DE LAS COVACHUELAS lle Ca os UE ij Torr Rein REC Moli n ero LOS Pº Canónigos l o LA del 31 irc zar DUQ la Cº na Pla a LER MA lona A CH AN M N-401 . Lá 1 DE Esc CAR t. S TA VE e ña de DE la Pa C os BARRIO DE LOS BLOQUES O ca MOCEJÓN 13 km MADRID 70 km N-403 AV. e ra IDA de C de az Call e Call O rg lav e Ta na via rica Amé N AVE enti Call A rg Boli sil mbia . Av Colo Autopista Mé Pl. de Cuba Autovía de a id Carretera nacional n e de Av Red básica 1er orden Ctra. Ctra. Red básica 2º orden Carretera local A.V.E. Ferrocarril Parador A V Hostería ENIDA Santuario-Monasterio Castillo DE Monumento Ruinas históricas Parque Nacional Camping o an Aeropuerto om R Patrimonio de la Humanidad o B ra o enz Lor Av. o x ic TURESPAÑA I Secretaría de Estado de Comercio, Turismo y PYME Ministerio de Economía y Hacienda