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13 Contents Table of Treks 16 The Author 18 Route Descriptions 19 Planning 20 Environment 26 The Araucanía 39 PARQUE PROVINCIAL COPAHUE Laguna Termal PARQUE NACIONAL LAGUNA DEL LAJA Around Volcán Antuco Reserva Nacional Malalcauello-Nalcas Environment Climate Lonquimay Circuit PARQUE NACIONAL Huerquehue Environment Climate Huerquehue Lakes PARQUE NACIONAL VILLARRICA Environment Climate Villarrica Traverse More TREKS Towns & Facilities Lakes District 40 41 44 45 49 49 49 50 55 55 57 57 60 60 61 61 68 71 78 PARQUE NACIONAL LANÍN 79 Environment 79 Climate 79 Planning 81 Access Towns 81 Ascent of Volcán Lanín 81 Termas de Lahuen Co to La Unión 85 PARQUE NACIONAL PUYEHUE 88 Environment Climate Access Town Baños de Caulle Pampa Frutilla PARQUE NACIONAL VICENTE PÉREZ ROSALES Environment Climate Planning Access Town Termas de Callao PARQUE NACIONAL NAHUEL HUAPI History Environment Climate Planning Access Town Nahuel Huapi Traverse Paso de las Nubes PARQUE NACIONAL ALERCE ANDINO Environment Climate Planning Laguna Fría MORE TREKS Towns & Facilities Central Patagonia 88 89 89 89 94 96 96 97 97 97 97 101 101 101 103 103 103 103 111 117 118 118 118 118 121 124 130 PARQUE PUMALÍN Environment Planning Access Towns Laguna Tronador Sendero Alerces Cascadas Escondidas COMARCA ANDINA Environment Climate Planning Around Cerro Hielo Azul PARQUE NACIONAL LOS ALERCES Environment Climate Lago Krügger RESERVA NACIONAL CERRO CASTILLO Environment 131 133 133 133 133 134 135 135 135 136 136 136 140 141 141 141 144 144 14 • contents Climate Around Cerro Castillo MORE TREKS Towns & Facilities Southern Patagonia 145 145 151 155 160 SAN LORENZO MASSIF 161 Environment 161 Climate 163 Access Town 163 Campamento De Agostini 163 LAGO O’HIGGINS AREA 166 Environment 166 Climate 166 Access Town 166 Laguna Tigre Sur 166 Valle Río Moscu 168 PARQUE NACIONAL LOS GLACIARES 169 Environment 170 Climate 170 Planning 170 Access Town 171 Laguna Torre 171 Around Monte Fitz Roy 172 PARQUE NACIONAL TORRES DEL PAINE 177 History Environment Climate Planning Getting There & Away Getting Around Access Town Torres del Paine Lookout Paine Circuit Pingo-Zapata More TREKS Towns & Facilities 177 178 179 179 180 180 181 181 182 191 192 194 Tierra del Fuego 202 Argentine fuegian andes Environment Climate Planning Sierra Valdivieso Circuit Laguna Esmeralda Glaciar Vinciguerra Paso de la Oveja ISLA NAVARINO Environment Climate Dientes Circuit 203 203 204 204 205 210 211 212 214 217 217 217 MORE TREKS Towns & Facilities 222 223 Trekkers Directory 226 Transport 240 Clothing & Equipment 249 Health & Safety 254 Language 266 Glossary 273 Behind the Scenes 277 Index 279 15 <PM5IX[ ; ? ? ? <PM ZI]KIVÌI >WTKÀV :ÌW )V\]KW 4W[ VOMTM[ !!U 86 864IO]VI 74 W 6IP]MT*]\I >WTKÀV 86 LMT4IRI :6 <WTP]IKI 4TIQUI 1[TI5WKPI U ; + WT WZI LW 4IVKW >ITLQ^QI ; 7[WZVW 86 8]aMP]M 86 4IVÌV *IZQTWKPM 8]MZ\W 86>QKMV\M 8ÈZMb:W[ITM[ 5WV\\ 86 ):/-6<16) 86)TMZKM 6IP]MT )VLQVW 0]IXQ +MV\ZIT8I\IOWVQI )VK]L 86 -T*WT[ÒV 0WZVWXQZÈV 86 864IOW +PQTWÈ +I[\ZW 8]MTW +PIQ\ÈV 9]MTTÒV 1[TI/ZIVLM LM+PQTWÈ 86 4IOW 8ITMVI 861[TI 86 5IOLITMVI9]M]TI\ 8]MZ\W+Q[VM[ ; 861[TI /]IUJTÌV 864I[8]MZ\W)Q[ÈV /]IQ\MKI[ 7+-)6 :6 3I\ITITQ`IZ ; Pen nsula ValdØs /WTNW <QMZZILMT.]MOW ,M [MI LW X X X ;IV2WZOM :ÌW X X X! 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