Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT

Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
There are a number of different climbing areas close to the town of Ontinyent in
the ravines called Barranco de L’Avern, the Barranco D’els Tarongers and
Barranco de Bocairent. The limestone rock is characterized by tufas, overhangs
and hanging stalactites.
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
APPROACHES
All the crags are in an area next to the
major highways of the A-330, the A430
and the N-340, close to the town of
Ontinyent (Onteniente). The climbing is
best approached from there by going
towards the town of Bocairent and signed
Villena.
where you leave the river. In front of you
is the cliff above the railway.
Sector 1: Pou Clar and Sector 2: La Monja
are visble from the parking for Pou Clar,
2km from Ontinyent.
WHERE TO STAY
It is prohibited to camp anywhere in the
sierra. There are hotels and hostels in
Ontinyent.
Sector 3: El Pont: Continue past the second
bridge. You can leave the car before or
after the bridge.
From there, for Sector 4: La Cequia, Sector
5: El Gegant and Sector 6: El Cagalló del
Gegant go down under the bridge for the
well marked path. When the path
disappears there is a small path through the
reeds to a small ditch at the base of the
wall.
THE SECTORS
1 – Finestres
2 – La Monja
3 – El Pont
4 – La Cequia
5 – El Gegant
6 – Cagallo del Gegant
7 – El Cami
8 – El Deposit and La Visera
9 – Patiras
9a – Tufa Wall
9b - Pylon
10 – La Via
11 – Heavy Pescador
12 – Fragel Rock I
13 – Fragel Rock II
14 – La Cantera
For sectors 7,8 and 9 take the single track
off to the right from the main road. Follow
this to a electricity transformer building.
Park here. For sector 7 and 8 take the track
leading to the right up the gully. For
sectors 9, 9a and 9b follow the path next
the river bed.
Sector 7: El Cami: Take the track before
the second bridge and park the car at the
bars.
Sector 10: La Via: Continue along the
main road and leave the car on the left
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Page 2 of 18
Heavy Pescador and Fragel Rock I and II:
After the end of the two-lane road, leave
the car on the right of the road. Go on foot
along the road to where you can identify
the sectors.
WATER
There is water at Pou Clar and at the
parking for El Camí. Also at the entrance
to the ravine Bocairent, at the cross of
Alfafara.
ORIENTATION
The different orientation of the sectors
allow climbing throughout the year by
choosing the right time of the day. It is
possible to climb in the very hot summer
by choosing a crag in the shade, but
breeze is useful. If it’s too hot you have
the option to swim in the river.
North facing: La Monja, El Pont and Pou
Clar.
South facing: La Cequia and Patirás.
West facing: La Via and El Gegant.
EQUIPMENT & HEIGHT
All the major areas are equipped with
expansion bolts with occasionally resin
bolts. All the routes can be climbed with a
60 meter rope as the belays are less than 30
meters except "les mil y una nit" on the
© Richard Davies 2003
Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
cliff La Via, where there is an belay station
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
halfway up.
Barranc de l`Avern. Pou Clar.
Sector 1: Finestres
This wall is characterised by the square holes which are the openings to small rooms inside the rock.
The routes are described from left to right.
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Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992
1.- Per a calfar . . . . . . .
7a?
4.- KK lorsai . . . . . . . ..
7b
2.- Putos hijos de Pou Clar .
?
5.- El maromo de las raiban
7a
3.- Entre morsas . . . . . .
7c
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© Richard Davies 2003
Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Barranc de l`Avern. Pou Clar.
Sector 2: La Monja
This section is described from left to right.
Barranc de l`Avern. Pou Clar.
Sector 3: El Pont
8. Xapa Xina . . . . . . . . .
6c/6c+
The routes are described from left to right.
1. Escalullo . . . . . . . . .
V+
9. Marilo . . . . . . . . . . .
6c
2. El jete dels escolars . . .
6c+
10. Queimada . . . . . . . .
7b
1. Catarata de merda . . . . . . . . .
6b
3. Diedre flequillo . . . . . .
V+
11. Monja . . . . . . . . . .
A1
2. Hector verdu . . . . . . . . . . . .
6a
4. Placa flequillo. . . . . . .
V
12. Pilotaris . . . . . . . . .
6b
3. Vicente Morales . . . . . . . . . .
6b+
5. Salva. . . . . . . . . . . .
V+
13. Burila alco ana . . . . .
A1
4. Quarre pa 2 vias . . . . . . . . . .
6a-
6. Iternauta. . . . . . . . . .
7a
14. El daurat . . . . . . . .
A1/6c
5. Pepe soplillo y sus moquillos . . .
6a
7. Dos germans . . . . . . .
6b+
6. Disetu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6c
7. El corsari . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7a
8. Balido bolilla . . . . . . . . . . . .
6b+
9. Sangul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6c+
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© Richard Davies 2003
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Page 6 of 18
© Richard Davies 2003
Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Barranc de l`Avern.
Sector 4: La Cequia
Barranc de l`Avern.
Sector 5: El Gegant
The routes are described from left to right.
.
V
13. Garbancito . . . . . .
 V+
2. Ricmos . . . . . . . . .
V
14. Avi-guai . . . . . . . .
V
3. Ekus . . . . . . . . . .
V
15. Mongolo . . . . . . . .
V
1. Bamcalina . . . . . . . .
6a
11. Sanson s escora . . . .
7b+
4. Trogolitro . . . . . . . .
V
16. Magachi . . . . . . . .
 6a
2. Satiro . . . . . . . . . . .
V
12. Man kane . . . . . . . .
7a+
5. Petxina . . . . . . . . .
 6a
17. Loca la bosina . . . .
 V+
3. Milotxo . . . . . . . . . .
V+
13. Hectur . . . . . . . . .
7a
6. El senor de los anillos. .
 6a
18. Carmaic . . . . . . . .
V
4. Jordi . . . . . . . . . . .
6a
14. Moir d’amor . . . . . .
7a+
7. Manduca . . . . . . . .
 6a+
19. Torta . . . . . . . . . .
V
5. En un moment . . . . . .
6b
15. Lot ras . . . . . . . . .
7a
8. Comic’s . . . . . . . .
 6b
20. Piruli . . . . . . . . . .
V
6. Pinoxo . . . . . . . . . .
6a
16. Sesion de noche . . .
6c
9. Cuentos chicos . . . .
 6a+
21. Nyanyes . . . . . . . .
V
7. J.M.Tempranillo . . . . .
6b
17. Te do tot . . . . . . .
6b+
10. Joli . . . . . . .
11. Flipat perdut per un
 V+
22. Caballo molames . . .
V
8. Sangurrsa . . . . . . . .
6c+
18. Anillo de cuero . . . .
6b-
23. Pistoles . . . . . . . .
V
9. Botamons . . . . . . . .
6c
19. Puntmort . . . . . . .
7a
canut . . . . . . . . . . .
 6a+
10. Sancalio . . . . . . . .
7a
12. Avi-cola . . . . . . . .
 6a
1. Espero lunchinin . .
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The routes are described from left to right.
Page 8 of 18
© Richard Davies 2003
Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Barranc de l`Avern.
Sector 6: El Cagalló del Gegant
Barranc dels Tarongers o de la Fos.
Sector 7: El Camí
The routes are described from left to right.
1.- S´has golo . . . . . . .
 7a+
20.- M´han fotut . . . . . .
7b+
2.- Barrufets . . . . . . . .
6c
21.- Bon tacte . . . . . . .
7a+
3.- Pitufos . . . . . . . . .
6a
22.- Si hay sirocco no te comas el
4.- Pelawaudios . . . . . .
6a
coco . . . . . . .
6c+
5.- Esperó boxerini . . . .
6a
23.- Ara no bailo . . . . . .
6c
7.- Dolores . . . . . . . . .
6a
24.- Marti tirali . . . . . . .
6b
8.- Tirali Calceti . . . . . .
6a+
25.- La penga dels botifarres
6a+
9.- Cap de caixo . . . . . .
6a
26.- Pablito clavó un clavito
6b
10.- Dolores con piano . .
6a
27.- De repent en parapent
6c+
11.- Flamingo . . . . . . .
6a
28.- Secció homos . . . . .
6c
12.- Tortugo . . . . . . .
6a
29.- Desastre pe un sastre
6b+
13.- L´oratge . . . . . . .
IV
30.- Xe quin bolet . . . . .
6a
14.- Obri llaunes . . . . .
IV
31.- Que content que estic
6c
15.- Sopa de ganso . . . .
6a+
32.- Relajació i recreo . . .
V+
16.- Va que es per avui . .
6a
33.- Opa ostil . . . . . . .
7a
17.- Rocabola . . . . . . .
6a+
34.- Cap finet . . . . . . .
6b+
18.- Panxa verda . . . . . .
7b
35.- Mano guarra . . . . .
7a+
19.- Mitja via . . . . . . .
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7a
36.- La trampa . . . . . . .
6a
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Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992
The routes are described from left to right.
1. Emlli esta fort . . . . . .
 6b
9. Arista . . . . . . . . .
 V+
2. Madre main . . . . . . .
 6b+
10. Avesper . . . . . . . . .
 V+
3. Depence . . . . . . . . .
 6b
11. Garrota . . . . . . . . .
 6a+
4. Hijo de Tarzan bol . . . .
 V+
12. Mosquiler . . . . . . . .
 6c
5. Bora per a Silvia . . . . .
 IV+
13. Vlrous . . . . . . . . .
7
6. Corazon pinturero . . . .
 6a
14. Mari . . . . . . . . .
 6a+
7. Pederasta . . . . . . . .
V
15. Espolo . . . . . . . . .
 6a+
8. Taurus . . . . . . . . .
 V+
16. Plaqueta . . . . . . . .
 A1
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© Richard Davies 2003
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Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Penya Roja.
Sector 8: La Visera and El Deposit
El Deposit
The routes are described from left to right.
La Visera
The routes are described from left to right.
16. Cala d’or . . . . . . . .
 6a
1. Mision imposible . . . . .
 8b
9. Tel mon tresor . . . . . .
 7a+
17. Masa . . . . . . . . .
 7a
2. Callolargo . . . . . . . .
 7b
10. Fraude millcrario . . .
 6a+
18. Tragaboles . . . . . . .
 6a+
3. Eternia . . . . . . . . .
 6c+
11. Tecnologica puta . . .
 7a
19. Styl de botifarra . . . .
 7a+
4. Antropomorfe . . . . . .
 6b+
12. Vata castellars . . . .
 6b+
20. Dilyn dilon . . . . . . .
 7a
5. Altair . . . . . . . . . . .
 6b
13. Pelailla . . . . . . . . .
V
21. Placa del diamart . . .
 7b
6. Premauro . . . . . . . .
 7a
14. Tecria en la practica . .
 IV
22. Tuaker . . . . . . . . .
 7a
7. Polivaient . . . . . . . .
 7b
15. Si una rosa es una rosa
 IV
23. Botiflers . . . . . . . .
 6c
8. La cara al vent . . . . . .
 7a+
24. Whily Devile . . . . . .
 6b+
25. Rantamplan . . . . . .
 6b
26. Tarachan . . . . . . . .
 6a+
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27. Camaion . . . . . . . .
 7a
28. Maulers . . . . . . . . .
 6c
29. Lincho de bolinche . . .
 6c+
30. Es sornit . . . . . . . ..
 7a
31. Bombras . . . . . . . .
 6c+
32. Peps trola . . . . . . . .
 7a
33. Aracnido . . . . . . . .
 6b+
34. Pato mas . . . . . . . .
 7b
35. Pat ras . . . . . . . . .
 6c+
36. Tarambane . . . . . . .
 6b
37. Nil d’amor . . . . . . . .
 6a
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Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Barranc dels Tarongers.
Sector 9: Patirás – left side
Barranc dels Tarongers.
Sector 9: Patirás – right side
The routes are described from left to right.
23. Modernar . . . . . . . .
6c+
24. Los pelillos de mi culillo
6c
1. Fanatic . . . . . . . . .
 7b
13. Uliye . . . . . . . . .
6c
25. Burrucanero . . . . .
6c
2. Vasallo . . . . . . . . .
7a+
14. Scoot . . . . . . . . .
6c+
26. Ma rigut . . . . . . . .
6b+
3. Tirano . . . . . . . . .
5c
15. Bufanda . . . . . . .
6a+
27. Penanegra . . . . . .
6b+
4. Usurero . . . . . . . . .
6c
16. Cuidao dall . . . . . . .
6a
28. Sicosis anielica . . . .
7a+
5. Cue vino suarl . . . . .
6a
17. Va que xuta . . . . . ..
V+
29. Mcoosis . . . . . . . . .
7a
6. A ningu que ll passe .
6a+
18. Barrenc . . . . . . . .
6a
7. Sarvaixo . . . . . . . .
6a+
19. Siempre pobres . . . .
6a
8. A pedraes . . . . . . . .
6c
20. Nuevos ricos . . . . ..
6b
9. Campanes . . . . . . . .
6c+
21. Cuidao en la llguera . .
6ª+
10. Tragaperres . . . . . ..
6a+
22. Jonhy maleta . . . . .
6c+
11. No me xalo la mano . .
6b+
12. Sostre del drac . . . . .
6a+
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Page 14 of 18
30. Faristol . . . . . . . . .
6c
31. Les peroles . . . . . .
6b+
32. Puja voras Valencia . .
6b
33. Sense nom . . . . . . .
V+
34. Leoncio . . . . . . . .
V
35. Triston . . . . . . . . .
IV+
© Richard Davies 2003
Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Sector 9a: Tufa Wall
From the parking follow the path, passing Patirás and Pylon until you reach the old ruined mill house.
Find a path leading from behind the mill house next to a water trough and follow this along the right bank
eventually traversing slabby rock to reach the tufa laden crag. The approach takes 20-25 minutes from the
parking place.
The routes are described from left to right.
1. ?
. . . . . . . . .
6c+
Two or three bolted project lines wander up the
rock in the centre of the face.
25m. At the left side of the crag. Climb the slab to a
steep wall and pull into the cave. Climb through the
roof of this and make a long reach to gain better
holds.
6. ?
2. ?
From behind the tree climb the pocket and tufa
cover wall to reach a large hole. Pull through the
roof above to the belay.
. . . . . . . . .
6c
25m. Slightly easier line 3 metres to the right.
3. ?
. . . . . . . . .

7a+
7. ?
8. ?
4. ?
9. ?
. . . . . . . . .
7a+
5. ?
Project
. . . . . . . . .
7c
From the platform starting just left of the tree climb
the tufa’s up the overhanging wall.
25m. Very obvious line up the large tufas. Pull
slightly rightwards where it steepens, crux, and
then more easily to a belay.
25m. Line to the right joining route 3 at the bulge.
Barranc de l`Avern.
Sector 10: La Vía
. . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . .
7c
7b
Start below the platform and climb the smoother
wall on tufas..
. . . . . . . . .
6c+
At the very right side of the crag climb the large
tufas.
The routes are described from left to right.
1. Capoli. . . . . . . . . . .
Sector 9b: Pylon
6a+
2. Brimonsler . . . . . . . .
6b+
From the parking area follow the footpath next to the river passing Patirás and shortly alter crossing the
stream bed find a foot path taking a steeper line up the hillside. Aim for the cliff close to the
electricity pylon. The approach takes about 15 minutes from the parking place.
3. El principle . . . . . . . .
7a+
4. Alex . . . . . . . . . . . .
6c+
The routes are described from left to right.
5. Orelies curtes . . . . . . .
7a
6. Crelles llargues . . . . . .
6c
7. Johny Mencieta . . . . . .
6a+
8. La ley del agarre . . . . . .
6c+
Climb the tufa line to a hole where the roof starts. A
good warm-up for the harder routes.
9. Caxipolla . . . . . . . . .
6c
9. ?
10. No talies el telix . . . . .
6b
As for route 8 to the roof. Pull past the hole and up
the stepped wall above.
11. El cerdo volador . . . . .
6c
10. ?
12. Baixca 41 . . . . . . . . .
6c
13. Mocadior blau . . . . . .
6b
14. Calla . . . . . . . . .
6b
1. ?
. . . . . . . . .
 Project
2. ?
. . . . . . . . .
 8b
3. ?
. . . . . . . . .
 8a
Large tufa leading to the roof. Finish at the lip.
4. ?
. . . . . . . . .
 Project
Tufa line to the right and final roof.
5. ?
. . . . . . . . .
 8b
Excellent looking overhanging shallow scoop line
running up the wall.
6. ?
. . . . . . . . .
 8b+
Very steep line up the bulging arête.
7. ?
. . . . . . . . .
8. ?
. . . . . . . . .
?
. . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . . .
 6c+
 8a+
 8b
Climb tufa’s up the wall and cross the wide roof
following the crack line.
Page 15 of 18
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Page 16 of 18
15. Les mil I una nit . . . . .
7b
Note – belay half-way
16. Orgulio blanco . . . . . .
6b
17. La taca roja . . . . . . .
6c
18. Sit e dicen que cal . . . .
7b
19. Luz artificial . . . . . . .
6c
20. Molierunga . . . . . . . .
6a+
21. Que palissa . . . . . . .
6a
22. Cinc-zero . . . . . . . . .
6a+
23. Si, que . . . . . . . . . .
6a
24. Pioilo . . . . . . . . . . .
6a
25. Cap arnut . . . . . . . .
V
26. Que facil . . . . . . . . .
V
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Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Barranc de Bocairent.
Sector 11: Heavy Pescador
Costa Blanca – ONTINYENT
Barranc de Bocairent.
Sector 13: Fraguel Rock II
1.- Abanico de cristal. . . . . . . . .
7a
2.-
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
?
1. Alcoiana . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7b
3.-
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
6c
2. Heavy Pescador . . . . . . . . . .
6c+
4.-
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
7b?
Barranc de Bocairent.
Sector 12: Fraguel Rock I
Barranc de Bocairent.
Sector 14: La Cantera
1. La cachima del moro . . . . . . .
6c+
2. La banana de la mora. . . . . . .
7c
3. Akbara. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8a
Page 17 of 18
5. La dona del Martin. . . . . . . . .
© Richard Davies 2003
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Page 18 of 18
6b
© Richard Davies 2003
Rockfax symbols © Rockfax 1992