* CAMPECHE AND 417 TENOSIQU& tensive buildings which had in them idols and sanctuaries. edifices were built of lime and sand. These O n the walls w e r e enormous serpents, and near them paintings representing their idols, round a kind of altar stained with drops of blood still quite fresh. On one side of the idols were painted human figures massed in the shape of a cross. W e were amazed at the sight of things so strange, as w e watched numbers of natives, men and women, come in to get a sight of us with smiling, unconcerned counte- nances." * But the scene soon changes; osier braziers, burning copal, are brought, and the priests tell the for Spaniards to leave the shore immediately under penalty of death. Spaniards sailed a w a y , and did not settle at C a m p e c h e The until T h e s e ancient mounds, these temples, with their ceremonial and gory priests, carry us back to M e x i c o ; but it would be vain to look for traces of such buildings along the coast, or in the proximity of Campeche became Spanish settlements. the most flourishing In process city of the of time peninsula, and was plundered several times by F r e n c h and E p g l i s h privateers. T o stop these frequent devastations, a strong wall w a s built around to enable the wall, built for its inhabitants to rest safety, seems now to in peace. oppress the But town, which has outgrown it, and is spreading outside, w h e r e wealthy merchants h a v e " quintas," in whose gardens the rich tropical fiora displays its magnificence, casting a multicoloured lx:lt about the town. Campeche, with its tortuous suburbs, its drawbridges, its unsymmetrical high buildings, is the least Eastern-looking place in Mexico, and boasts no monuments worthy of mention. Our steamer stopjxxl some hours here, g i v i n g me the opportunity to # 27 Iternal D i a z t t o m e 1. chap. iii. rr m i l •n m r% 418 THE pay a ANCIENT long-promised correspondent, pleasantest talk. under days CITIES visit OF T H E to Don N E W WOKI.IX F. Ferrer, charming whose hospitable roof I spent one of the I can remember, amidst music W e returned to our steamer en route afternoon, and a and pleasant for C a r m e n in the I looked forward to h a v i n g the whole boat to myself, when a l a r g e canoe full of |X!ople rowed up alongside just a s w e were settling down comfortably. " O h d e a r ! " I thought, " t h r e e d a y s ' v o y a g e with a surplus of eighteen people, not counting half-a-dozen curs and parrots! to b e c o m e of u s ? " If the norte g e t s up, what is T h e y were strolling actors who had long secured all the available accommodation, so that we w e r e g i v e n the choice of the deck, and it w a s with difficulty that I obtained for L u c i a n , w h o w a s prostrated a wee corner below. of the women. is it yellow was us in fever?" is the they whereupon undisturbed of fever, Presently his moans attracted the attention " What my r e p l y ; with a s e v e r e attack matter 41 inquired. the possession whole of with 1 the gentleman, shouldn't wonder/' band made off and our berths, w h e r e we left slept the sleep of the just, and a r r i v e d at C a r m e n as fresh as larks. This place is the great depot for woods known a s Campeche, and drives a brisk trade. I found my old called Chinal on maybe the basements of in them, bullets friend when likewise Don Benito, Usumacinta, temples. Some of plausible these g u n s in an battle of Centla in so much explanation 11 tombs, made long, to light. or with I was are now in the T r o c a d e r o . I can mound, give for is that either the presence a f t e r the great Cortez' artillery wrought the natives tried to copy being unacquainted island were inches brought Tabasco, in which destruction, engine, but Indian an mounds, excavations feet terra-cotta, w e r e presented with s o m e bullets, which T h e only having terra-cotta guns, 4 of who owns with this new war- iron or the effect CAMPECHK 419 AND T E N O S I Q U £ . of powder, they reproduced them in the material most familiar to them, fondly imagining that the result would be the same, and buried them later with their chief. T h e j o u r n e y from C a r m e n to Frontera takes t w e l v e hours, where we land the very day twelve months a f t e r our first visit, and put up again at the detestable fonda. HOTF.L O R I J A L V A pox and yellow-fever h a v e AT W e learn that small- FRONTfRA. decimated and are decimating the town, but nothing daunted, for these epidemics seem to spare foreigners, I fill tip the time 1 must wait here until calls, by collecting ancient pottery. a steamer Indian idols are of frequent occurrence in Central A m e r i c a , but up to the present time no one has cared to collect them, and the M e x i c a n possess a single specimen. figures Museum does not A m o n g those I picked up are v a r i o u s resembling more or less those of the table-land, while 420 THE ANCIENT C I T I E S OF T H E NEW W O K I . I X their differences of style connect them with the idols at Palenque. Our drawing shows the two best preserved, and although v e r y rude in make, they are not devoid of interest. T h e figure to the left is a Quetzalcoatl, easily recognised the from serpent sur- rounding his head, and is the facsimile of a stone idol at Capan ; while the larger to the right may have been meant for a priest or a " t e c u h t l i " knight. W e are in full carnival, the entire population parading the streets in ludicrous travesties, making merry with music, j o k e s , and quips. T h e Seftoritas come to our fonda to get subscribers for the dance ; we g i v e our names and follow the stream. ball is kept requisition up with by all The much vigour, and Julian is soon in great the pretty Seftoritas, to the annoyance and mortification of Lucian, who ends, however, by declaring that he can well forgive his success, for lie is an obliging fellow and such a hand at polishing his boots. T h e s e words are drowned in the tumult and cries of the dancers pressing round a man who has just been shot by his less favoured rival. The would-be murderer is taken to the police station, while his victim is conveyed home by his friends and the ball g o e s on more briskly than ever. A t last a steamer bound for the U s u m a c i n t a is in sight. We get on board with alacrity, and arc soon at J o n u t a ; but here the captain, on seeing the low e b b of the river, declares that his ship cannot g o any further. A f t e r much parley he is persuaded to g o on, but we are startled by a tremendous bump in the middle of the night, and find that w e are stranded. W e wait for the day, when, with a great deal of difficulty, we succeed in getting her off, and push on to Monte-Cristo, where the captain nolens volcns lands us, protesting that his ship cannot g o another yard. But our troubles do not end here. our W e are requested to show passes, and as Monte-Cristo is not mentioned, w e are in d a n g e r CAMPECHK AND TENOSIQU£. 421 of h a v i n g the whole of our property confiscated; Fortunately I had a letter from the H o m e Minister, recommending me to all the authorities of the Republic. I took it to the M a y o r , who g a v e me full leave to continue my journey unmolested. TKKKACOTTA A n d now we find that IDOLS OF TAKAbCO. w e turn our thoughts how to get to T e n o s i q u e ; it takes twenty-four hours by four or five days land. We procure by a water, and canoa, in some which we deposit our b a g g a g e , under the management of our faithful Julian, who will follow a s quickly a s possible, while Lucian % THE and ANCIENT I, with a arc soon six hours CITIES OF T H E guide, t a k e the road left behind, and later, when do we XEW WOKI.D. through not s e e find him the our g u i d e reposing by woods. We again until the side of a running stream. " W h e r e is o u r l u n c h ? " "What 1 roared out. lunch?" " W h y , the parcel w e put up b e f o r e w e started." 11 O h ! 1 didn't k n o w what it w a s , and I left it b e h i n d . " E x p o s t u l a t i o n s w e r e more than vain, and w e had to satisfy the c r a v i n g s of h u n g e r with a draught of rum and We press on as best where we reach a rancho made of Here w e cross the r i v e r on Indian may, and fresh e g g s , corn, s o m e hours later poultry, somewhat water! restore and our to the right a we beverage jaded frames. side, and a r r i v e at C a b e c e r a early in the e v e n i n g , and put up at two old dames', w h o r e g a l e us with chicken broth and fried fish, which, seasoned by hunger, at Tenosique, quarters of we garrapatas, delicious. three in a scraping find miles vacant and and other we insects, the food, an that to g i v e tis s o m e salad these naturally improved with the dearth distant, hut, but. d o sweeping, old man does enough green Hon native Gil |>oor hamlet by name, character early we are where we take up our in the way we will get rid of which eat us best, and mosquitoes, alive. I still As to remember recourse to turnip-leaves ; hard juice to the by way bite, and of hardly vinegar. food m a d e us g u l p it d o w n will to like it. and w e almost This day cannot had were next what his he bitter o r a n g e of any The But with a succeeded. dates back settled here. to the present to 1535, It s e e m s day; when a to h a v e Spaniard. kept its for D o n S a t u r n i n o tells me, that thirty y e a r s a g o it had still a cacique, " tropiles " (subs), and a picote. O f late it has acquired some importance, from 423 its being the great entrepot of ebony wood, sought for in the remotest parts of the State. We ruins the hear the most I wish other to side Usumacinta. conflicting reports explore, lying some of They the Sierra, were on visited with regard fifty miles the twelve to the distant on left bank of the years ago by the mayor of this place, " when they were still held in high esteem A B I T OK by the Laeandones. A TRNOSKiUfi. guard was placed and on stated d a y s religious ceremonies since the fall of a favourite idol, whose the rubbish, the building has this piece of good news, I direct all men, mules, promise of and horses; double pay, for * their return and from as Peten. been the temples head lies now abandoned." we latter and obtain we they have by procure with the to wait arrive at the g h a s t l y but among Cheered my energies to Hut when I see their wretched condition, the were performed, former for the over last wounds 424 THE which cover forming ANCIENT them, the I feel arduous T h e i r owner assures i will be all right. CITIES great journey me OF T H E NEW W O K I . I X misgivings which is as in to their per- store that with a week's rest for the them. animals I must needs accept his word for it, hoping the best, for there is nothing else to be done. T o reach the ruins, a space of s o m e five leagues of forest will h a v e to be cleared on the right side of the river, which will take us opposite the ruins, but a canoe must likewise be made • to ferry us across. F o r this purpose I despatch s o m e men in advance, while w e fill up the w e a r y time of waiting to catch some fish. Curiously enough, a number of sea-fish is found here in the Usumacinta, when swollen by by trying rain 1 0 0 miles from its mouth ; and it brings from distant G u a t e m a l a large quantities of lobsters, together with pumice stones. W e set out on the 1 5 t h of March, 1 8 8 2 , and are soon in a tangle of wood and beset with obstacles of e v e r y kind ; while the mules g e t unloaded, g o astray, tarry in green pastures, and arc altogether v e r y troublesome. W e h a v e left behind us the low marshy level, and are nearing the Cordillera, bearing to the south-east on the Pctcn road. T h e forest seems absolutely interminable with magnificent cedar and palm-trees, o v e r 1 0 0 feet high, the trunks of which almost disappear under flowering lianas, while the broad-leaved P a l m y r a palms commingle with Brazil wood, and form boundless d o m e s of verdure. It would be pleasant enough could one get used being eaten up by mosquitoes and garrapatas. where w e encamp, although not possessed carefully marked in the maps for the even The to stations of a hut, are benefit of muleteers; they are a l w a y s on risihg ground, in the vicinity of water and ramon for the animals, their staple food on Our d a y ' s journey has told already on cut down ramon. the march. them ; the men disperse to Julian is putting up our camp-beds, while cook CAMPECHK AND TENOSIQU£. 425 is busy with our supper, which usually consists of Scotch broth, made of dried meat, rice, a n d a black kind of beans, round of biscuit, and a cup of coffee, e x c e p t pn d a y s when a our larder has been replenished 011 the w a y by a wild duck, a peccari, and sometimes a m o n k e y ! In the e v e n i n g the men, g r o u p e d round the fire, indulge in a social weed, while recounting adventures more or less authentic, then we all retire behind o u r mosquito weary limbs on soft green leaves. interrupted by the roar of the of nocturnal curtains and rest O u r slumbers wild beast, birds, and howling monkeys. the our are often plaintive cries W e rise before day- break, and what with breakfast, saddling and loading our animals, the sun is high on the journey. No incident progress, but towards buildings, vast horizon we can continue our b r e a k s the w e a r i s o m e monotony of our noon I before notice to our right traces esplanades, the stone e d g e s of which are intact, whilst the g u i d e s a y s that towards the valley of S . to our left, are entire monuments Izancanac, perhaps. still standing—the of still Pedro, town of Indeed, the whole country is c o v e r e d with ruins, to study which a lifetime w e r e not too long. T h e region is full of the memory of the conqueror. have travelled this v e r y road on his march to H e must Honduras. It was in these woods that, under pretext of a conspiracy, he caused Guatemozin to l>e executed. T h e y o u n g A z t e c prince displayed the intrepid spirit of his better d a y s ; he reproached Cortez for his want of faith, protesting the while his innocence. monument has independence just been raised to the in that Tenochtitlan which upholder A of tardy Indian he defended a s a s there w a s stone upon stone, whilst not e v e n a bust long marks the presence of his murderer. T h e region w e now traverse, covered with immense forests, was cultivated and inhabited before the C o n q u e s t ; great cities 426 THE ANCIENT CITIES OF THE NEW W O K I . I X rose in this trackless labyrinth, the vestiges of which h a v e been noticed by us, whilst frequent mention of them is found in various authors. On this route Cortez saw " a great city," with strong buildings of stone on the summits of mounds, just a s at the present day. T h i s city, known a s 11 Bitza," had been abandoned on the approach of the Spaniards, but provisions of all kinds were left. W h e n its inhabitants returned, Cortez asked w h y they had fled. 41 Because w e were afraid." 11 W h a t is the meaning of all these provisions ? Why are all the crops gathered in ? " 41 Because if the Lacandones, with whom had come and conquered us, w e would everything to s t a r v e them out. But on w e are at feud, h a v e done a w a y with the contrary had w e prevailed, w e would have given hot pursuit and lived at their which were expense." * Next Cortez passed a town, the environs of peopled with deer so tame, that the S p a n i a r d s could catch them by riding a f t e r thcm.t T h e country must, therefore, h a v e been open to allow of the Spanish cavaliers g i v i n g chase. Cogolludo calls the region Guatemala, Prospero, and s a y s : between 44 Y u c a t a n , Chiapas, and T h e natives of Prospero h a v e their ears and nostrils b o r e d ; they wear in the latter a vanilla pod or a c a r v e d piece of wood ; their hair, of which they are vain, is worn long and adorned with f e a t h e r s ; they also practise tattooing. T h e y told father S i m o n that the country round w a s more densely populated than Y u c a t a n , that they went by the name of which means apart. Locates, and spoke the M a y a language ; that the other tribes were the Mopanes, Lacandones, A h a b e s , Cihaches, Chinamitas, e t c . ; that the town • Villa Guticrrc Soto Mayor, d o n e s , " c h a p . v. p. 3 0 . t Ibid. c h a p . vi. p. 4 3 . 44 of Locen numbered eight hundred H i s t , o f the C o n q u e s t of Itza a n d the Lacan- 427 houses; that the inhabitants were known for their clear com- plexion, their good looks; that they wore gold collars round their n e c k s ; and, finally, that many ancient buildings with stone idols in them, were found in the S i e r r a . " * Meanwhile our journey becomes more and more harassing; w e have been obliged to leave one of the horses and a mule to the jaguars, and not to, overload the others, Lucian and 1 ride in turn the only remaining horse. We cross the Arroyo Y a l c h i l a n t on the G u a t e m a l a border, not far from L o c e n , and leaving the Peten road, we steer to the south-east-south, on the path cleared by our men, and encamp on the bank of the running stream in which w e lave our dust-travelled limbs. T h e next day w e climb the range of hills which divide us from the upper Usumacinta, and which are almost impassable for loaded animals. T h e sharp stones destroy the leather of our boots, and cut the mules' feet to pieces, while we are in d a n g e r of being lost • down the ravines and precipices. T h e better to case the mules' backs, we leave here such provisions as we shall not require, for g a m e will not be wanting on our way, and e v e r y t h i n g will be safe until we return. A scaffolding supported on poles fixed to the ground is made, on which wine, biscuit, salt meat, and beans are deposited. Here w e encamp for the night — the T e n o s i q u e — a n d the next day we begin sixth since w e left the ascent of Mirador and A g u i l a ; the latter, although not more than 1 , 3 0 0 to, 1,400 feet in height, is exceedingly steep and arduous. W e meet an old montcro, Doii P. Mora, who left his native village three months since, and business is is to living mark • in the Sierra with two mahogany trees ready C o g o l l u d o , t o m e 1. lib. xii. c a p . v i i l t S e e note at end. Indians, for the whose market. 178 THE Don ANCIENT CITIES oF THE NEW W O K I . I X Pepe has built himself a hut on the Chotal shoots whatever comes within the the supj>ort of himself range ot his and his companions. fellow is reduced to a deplorable volunteers some valuable state hints, which by river; he muzzle, for The i>oor old marsh fever; he I repay with a glass of wine and a few cigars. 1 UK CSLMACIJUA AT J*AvO YALC1IILAN. S o m e hours more and we reach the broad level, and set up our t£nts on the Chotal, a tributary of The the forest round air with silently among is teeming with l i f e ; their shrill the higher peer inquisitively cries, yellow-crested branches, * T h e H o c c o . or Powise ( C r a x al«tor\ Usumacinta. parrots and aras fill while at us, and herds of wild much prized for its delicate the hoccos* howling move monkeys boars rush madly is a bird nearly the size of a turkey, and flesh.—TKANSL. CAMPECHK past us. We AND TENOSIQU£. arc in the country of the 429 Lacandoncs; here and there traces of cultivation are still visible, and huts which have been abandoned on plainly show that raise our 44 they the approach were camp," en route inhabited of not timber long merchants, ago. We • for the Yalchilan Pass, and arrive in the evening on the right bank of the Usumacinta. DON PUPK MOKA. B i b l l o t e o a in^F GARCIA PAYON C H A P T E R LORILLARD Paso Yalchilan—Another campment—Upper : Surprise— A Mule I,ost—An Usumacinta—No Mysterious Votive Pillar—Ruins—I X X I I . TOWN. Anxious Night—A Canoes—A Traveller—A Wild Boar—En Difficulty—Deliverance— Canoe—Fever—Down M e e t with a S t r a n g e r — G e n e r a l Stream—A V i e w of Lorillard— A R e m i n i s c e n c e — S t e p h e n s ' " P h a n t o m C i t y " — E x t e n t of the R u i n s U n k n o w n —Temple—Idol—Fortress—Our Temple—Stone Lintels and Dwelling Two Kinds Palace—Great of Pyramid—Second Inscriptions—Our Return— Lacandones. PASO YALCHILAN is a geographical place on the right from Guatemala. bank of the We reached any given Usumacinta, dividing Mexico it so late that we had barely time to unload our animals and get the night set in. point, meaning them some fodder before B u t now I discovered that the mule carrying the material for our squeezes had lagged behind; but it was LORILLARD TOWN. 431 too dark, the men declared, to g o hunting for him in the insecure forest, next morning would be time enough. were rather startled by cries of 44 In the night we A 1 tigre ! al tigre ! " (the tiger). It turned out to be only a jaguar, but it served to remind us to keep a fire burning. T h e next day some of the men set to work at our cabins, whilst others went in quest of the wretched mule, which they found almost dead with fatigue and want of food. T h e y also brought to the general larder a nice young boar, which was received with joyful shouts, immediately up, roasted, and eaten at our mid-day meal down cut to the last morsel. Our shots brought the canoeros construct a canoe. I had sent in advance to My inquiries as to the work done were met with the unsatisfactory answer that nothing was finished ; they had been unlucky in the choice of timber, etc. I immediately set out to see how it was, and to my great annoyance I found that hardly any progress had been made. In fact, the men had taken it mighty easy, had lived like lords on the supplies I had given them, varying their fare with fish from the river and game from the forest; causing me a delay which might ruin my expedition, for our supplies would not last out if this was the way they went to work. downcast, looking at the broad I was returning with river, here over head 500 feet across, pondering on the distance which divided me from the goal of my expedition, when I spied ahead of us a boat manned by a Lacandon, who on perceiving us veered quickly round. Fortunately one of our men spoke Maya ; he hailed the promising him a great reward if he would steer towards us. man, He came to our encampment, and when I heard that he was a chief, 1 showed him the presents I had brought, telling him they would be his and any of his people's he should bring to me. W e learnt that he had two more canoes he was willing to let us have 432 THE ANCIENT C I T I E S OF T H E NEW W O K I . I X for a consideration, and I congratulated myself on being able to attain my end so easily. W e were now waiting with some impatience for the cayucoes, when a large canoe manned by three white men loomed in the d i s t a n c e ; a horrible suspicion flashed across my mind, that they were men belonging to another expedition, who had forestalled me. T h e canoe c a m e near, and I learnt that they had been on a foray expedition a m o n g the L a c a n d o n e s , but had been unable to obtain anything except a few tomatoes, and were now returning to the ruins to join their master, D o n A l v a r e d o , and that their provisions w e r e running v e r y short. 44 H a v e you another c a n o e ? " I inquired. " Y e s , much larger than this." 44 L o o k here, my good fellows, take my card to y o u r master with my compliments, together with half a wild pig, salt meat, rice, biscuits, and in return ask him to lend me his large canoe, which these men I send with you will b r i n g . " T h e strangers r o w e d a w a y , and 1 began to prepare for the next d a y ' s expedition, in which accompany me, leaving the rest Lucian and six men behind to take care h e a v y l u g g a g e under the superintendence of Julian. would of our But in the morning early I had a s e v e r e attack of malaria, which threatened at one time to d e l a y our j o u r n e y . A f e w hours' rest, however, and a good dose of quinine, restored me sufficiently to allow of my setting out for the long-sought, long wished-for ruins, which we reached in three hours, landing near an enormous pile of s t o n e s — a kind of votive pillar—rising on the left bank of the river, which has withstood the buffeting of the waters for several centuries. T h i s stone mound w a s described to me at T e n o s i q u e , as having formed part of an old bridge which spanned the river at this point. building But what w e know of the natives' method makes this supposition impossible, of for the river is too 434 AMERICA PINTORESCA H a s t a me a t r e v e r i a d a c o n s e j a r que nadie se h a g a e x p l o r a d o r : tantas son las dificultades que ante mi s u r g e n , v i n i e n d o d entorpecer mi marcha. R e c i b o d la v e z tan contradictorias noticias s o b r e las ruinas c u y o descubrimiento p e r s i g o , que e m p i e z o d sospechar que h a y en esto un terrible e n g a f t o 6 u n a sensible mala inteligencia. Y sin e m b a r g o , las ruinas e x i s t e n : asf me lo a s e g u r a t e r m i n a n t e m e n t e el individuo que las v i 6 por v e z primera. E s t a n 16jos, d cincuenta l e g u a s d e a q u i , al otro lado d e la S i e r r a y a la orilla izquierda del U s u m a c i n t a ; no h a y ningun camino, pero el itinerario e s conocido. M i h o m b r e , que hoy e s j e f e politico d c T e n o s i q u e , afiade: i Descubrf e s a s ruinas h a c e d o c e a f l o s , en cuya £ p o c a los lacandones las tenian en g r a n v e n e r a c i o n ; ponian g u a r d i a s p a r a custodiarlas y en ciertos d i a s del afto celebraban en ellas c e r e m o n i a s religiosas. N o permitian que s e tocaran los palacios ni los temp l o s ; pero d e s d e la caida d e un g r a n fdolo q u e a d o r a b a n m u y p a r t i c u l a r m e n t e , y cuya c a b e z a y a c e hoy entre los e s c o m b r o s , han a b a n d o n a d o los palacios.» E s t a minuciosa a s e v e r a c i o n me r e a n i m a , y v o y a o c u p a r m e t o d a v f a con mds ardor en hacer mis p r e p a r a t i v o s . M a s j a y ! me siento impotente. A mi l l e g a d a iba p r o v i s t o d e cartas d c recomendacion p a r a las d o s c a s a s cmncrciales del p u e b l o , en las q u e m e hicieron toda clase d c p r o m e s a s , pero no cumplicron n i n g u n a . Xece- sitaba p o r lo m e n o s q u i n c e h o m b r e s , catorce m u l a s y tres c a b a l l o s ; envi<£ d b u s c a r los primeros en un radio d e v e i n t e l e g u a s , ofrectendolcs doble s a l a r i o ; en cuanto d l a s mulas, me decian que e s p e r a s e un c o n v o y q u e , d e v u e l t a d c P e t e n , podria ponerse en m a r c h a d e s p u e s dc desc a n s a r a l g u n o s dias. T e n i a v f v e r e s : sacos d c a r r o z , habichuclas n e g r a s y g a l l c t a , p e r o faltaba carne. C o m p r e d o s t o r o s , q u e me vendieron d c mala g a n a , y d e s p u e s d e muertos se parti6 su c a r n e en t i r a s , q u e se salaron y secaron tres dias al sol. E s t o s e llama tasajo, y la c a r n e p r e p a r a d a d e este m o d o se c o n s e r v a i n d e f i n i d a m e n t c . M i c n t r a s tanto habia l o g r a d o reunir a l g u n o s h o m b r e s y m e respondian d e tener los que f a l t a b a n , p e r o las m u l a s con tanto a f a n e s p e r a d a s , no llegaban. P o r fin, una tarde, al o c t a v o dia d c mi dctencion f o r z a d a , 01' g r i t o s , p i s a d a s d e c a b a l l e r f a s en el suelo lleno d e y e r b a d e las calles, y sail presuroso d e mi domicilio: jeran las mulas! L a s c o n t e , vf que h a b i a d o c e , y me di' p o r s a l v a d o . P e r o n o , no lo e s t a b a , p o r q u e d la m a f i a n a s i g u i e n t e , c u a n d o pude examinar despacio aquellos animates en el patio d e la c a s a , s e m e presentaron en t o d o el horror d c su inutilidad. E s t a b a n en los h u e s o s , llenas d c a s q u e r o s a s m a t a d u r a s , medio podridas y casi m u e r t a s en su mayori'a, en una p a l a b r a , d c t o d o punto inservibles p a r a soportar un v i a j e tan l a r g o y penoso. P e r o su a m o m e a s c g u r a b a q u e , cuando hubiesen d c s c a n s a d o ocho d i a s , podrian e m p r e n d e r la m a r c h a , con la condicion d e no l l e v a r mds que m e d i a c a r g a . E l m u y tunante s e crcia tanto mas autorizado d decirlo asf cuanto que s a b i a q u e la m a y o r p a r t e d e sus mulas s e quedarian por el camino y q u e las haria p a g a r c o m o b u e n a s , lo q u e s u c e d i o en e f e c t o mds a d c lante. P e r o y o no s o s p c c h a b a n a d a d e tan i n f a m e c o m b i n a c i o n , y seguf o c u p d n d o m e en mis p r e p a r a t i v o s d e marcha. L o s h o m b r e s iban l l e g a n d o ; m a n d £ h a c e r bastes y a p a r e j o s p a r a las a c e m i l a s , pues los q u e tenian se caian d p e d a z o s ; s e prepararon las c a r g a s bajo la v i g i l a n c i a del arriero en j e f e L O R I L L A K D TOWN. 435 broad, and on the other hand, had a bridge formerly stood here, remains would l>e found either on the opposite side or in the bed of the river. There is very little doubt that tor all the purposes of daily life, the inhabitants of this city used "canoas" just as they do now. VOTIVE PI LP. OP LOR II.LARD. W e had made but a short way among the ruins lying in every direction, when we were met by Don Alvarcdo. whose fair looks and elastic step showed him to l>e an Englishman. hands; he knew my name, he told me h i s : Esq., from London; annoyance I felt: and as my looks W e shook Alfred Maudslay. betrayed the inward 436 THE "It's all ANCIENT right," C I T I E S OF T H E he said; should look so distressed. "there NEW W O K I . I X is no reason why you M y having had the start of you was a mere chance, as it would have been mere chance had it been the other way. Y o u need have no fear on my account, for I am only an amateur, travelling for pleasure. of course is different. C o m e , I have had Hut I do not intend to publish anything. a place got ready Y and as for the ruins I make them over to you. Y o u can name the town, claim to have discovered it, in fact do what you interfere with you W i t h you the case in any please. way, and you I shall may e v e n not dispense with mentioning my name if you so please." I was deeply touched with his kind manner, and I am only too charmed to share with him this city. the glory of having explored W e lived and worked together like two brothers, and w e parted the best friends in the world. T h i s town, which I shall call " Lorillard," in honour of the munificent man who partly d e f r a y s the cost of the expedition, rises on the left bank of the Usumacinta in the 17th d e g r e e lat. (see Map), in a region hitherto unclassified, between Guatemala, Chiapas, mately and its Tabasco. position (We from are able the bearings to determine we took approxi- along our route.) It was discovered twelve years a g o by Suarez of T e n o s i q u e , and has been Ealay de visited Palisada. at different times by monteros and by It has been called " Phantom city," from a passage in Stephens' Journal,* in which he reproduces a conversation with the merry told of " a great 41 Cura Indian city M of S a n t a Cruz del Quiche, who four days' journey from Santa Cruz, on the road to Mexico, as being densely populated, and in the same condition as other places of Central America. # S t e p h e n s , s e c o n d vol. o f " C e n t r a l A m e r i c a a n d Y u c a t a n . " Me LOKILLARD ROUTE K.V0SIQUB TOWN, 437 THROUGH MEXICO FROM AW<R 0 GUJ* \ kntampmrni SJ>ry Chciak Koc/u-, Co/frjcmrt AtiL's* * <^y> L.PHrn £1 Mur*.Ayr North f.oSu bidatUlAgu.>rv4U \ Choi a I South V I L L A I -OR 1 1 - 1 . A K V*(Kuin a. yh'aNfhr 1'rfTt-mora rP*%odeYalch;Un MAP T A K F X FROM had heard of it at C h a y u l T1IR GEOGRAPHICAL many years KJCIFTTV. Ixrfore. where h e had asccnded the S i e r r a , whence the vast panorama of Y u c a t a n Tabasco 28* to the sea could easily be distinguished, and that and he 438 THE ANCIENT Of CITIES THE NEW WOki.ix had seen in the far distance a city o c c u p y i n g an immense space, its white t o w e r s shining in the sun." I d o not think that this mysterious city, if e v e r it w a s in existence, is Lorillard, for its b e a r i n g s do not a g r e e with those of the A m e r i c a n traveller ; but there are m a n y others in the forests, and monteros m a y c o m e upon palaces which will a n s w e r the description of palaces of S a n t a the " cura," who assured S t e p h e n s that the C r u z del Quiche, which in 1841 w e r e found in an a d v a n c e d state of dilapidation, w e r e in a perfect state of preservation thirty y e a r s b e f o r e , and that him of the buildings of his own c o u n t r y ; they had reminded that at C o b a n , in the p r o v i n c e of V e r a Paz, stood an ancient city ( U t a t l a n ) a s large as V e r a when Cruz, now deserted, its inhabitants had abandoned streets, a m o n g its colossal entire a s those at but almost it. He buildings, as perfect a s had walked in the silent and found its palaces as VeraCruz."* T h e number of buildings in gooil preservation at Lorillard w a s supposed to b e t w e l v e , of which s i x were " c a s a s c e r r a d a s , " and six without monuments on doors. Balay the right bank in of his the ground river, plan these places we were unable to d i s c o v e r ; but w e found more than t w e l v e monuments on the left b a n k , three or four of which a r e still standing, h a v i n g no trace of doors, j u s t like those at P a l e n q u e w h e r e they also supposed to exist. were O w i n g to the distance from all inhabited centres and the luxurious v e g e t a t i o n which o v e r r u n s these ruins. • a complete exploration of them is e x t e n t is not known ; but to j u d g e the number of the monuments twenty, consisting of the lower a s usual orders. almost impossible. Then from other Indian centres may be estimated of temples, These buildings, palaces, some * S t e p h e n s , * T r a v e l s in C e n t r a l A m e r i c a . " at and 65 fifteen the feet or huts distant LOKILLARD TOWN, 439 from the river, arc like those at Palenque, supported on terraces rising in amphitheatre and resting on natural hills, which builders made use of to s a v e labour. the T h e y arc, a s usual, faced with stones, h a v e a central flight of steps, but they arc fewer, of smaller dimensions, and edifices at Palenque; not so richly decorated a s similar but the materials decorations, the figures on "the employed, the inner bas reliefs with retreating fore- heads, are the same, although more rudely built. T h e outline, however, resembles some of the Yucatec structures. It should be remarked that it is difficult to g i v e a correct description of these monuments, for all trace of outer decoration has dis- appeared. TLA* O F KIR S T TRMTL.FI A T LORIM-ARTL. N o . I , Enirwicc* with Sculptured Lintels of Stone. N o v 2 atxl 4, Nicbc* with Platformi aod I d o l No. 3, N k b c * . No. $, Apoitoacrx T h e first monument we s t u d y — o f ground plan are g i v e n — i s a temple. which a drawing and a It stands at a distance of 487 feet from the river, on a mound about 1 2 0 feet high. I call it temple because it contains a great stone idol and niches which must have supjx>rted other idols, and from the smoke of offerings. that the walls are black T h e idol's head is lopped off, and lies amidst the rubbish ; the face is completely mutilated, which seems to show th.it in the frequent inter-tribal wars, the town was taken and plundered, the temple demolished, and the vanquished gods destroyed. T h i s w e see in the Mexican manuscripts, where the defeat of a nation is always represented by a small edifice with a prominent cornice, which is entered by the invader a lighted torch in his hand. B l b l i o t e o a J D S T G ' RCA \ PAYPM THE 440 ANCIENT CITIES OF T H E B u t when w a s Lorillard destroyed ? Soto Mayor* says: gives "That the Lacandones; that us an Iztaes of in WOki.ix NEW I think Villa approximate Peten 1694—two were date at when he enmity with y e a r s before the ^ Gutierre the fall of the city by the S p a n i a r d s ^ggwHHfr^^ —the former m a J H R ^ i ^ ^ - i f ^ ' ^ were ... expeditions with fleets of canoes j on '^ffT anc v the l Rio and i^^Mfcyy^7 Usumacinta Tabasco, that dered they plun- and destroyed the towns situated on i ^ - W t h e j p g y • ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ B u t i f destruction of lard would be much later, -: ^ ^ ^ a K ' i k ' " w e follow B o y l e , t the C w'~ r i v e r ^ ^ ^ ^ for ° The ^ "' ^ read : Lacandones ^^r ^ years ago" II>OI. I N LA CAN HON TP. MP I.E. we Loril- (1730). » •* i • T h i s idol is v e r y beautiful and unique of its kind, for nothing like it has found either in T a b a s c o or Y u c a t a n . It sitting hands on cross-legged, the resting represents the been a figure knees. The attitude is placid and dignified, like a B u d d h a s t a t u e ; the face, • V i l l a G u t i e r r e S o t o M a y o r , " H i s t o r y o f t h e C o n q u e s t o f I t z a , " p. 2 8 5 . t " B o y l e ' s R i d e / ' v o l . 1. p p . 1 4 - 1 7 , q u o t e d b y B a n c r o f t . ) "J' J'.*: 442 AMERICA PINTORESCA oscuridad de la noche su encuentro no tiene nada dc agradable. Cogf pues mi revolver, un bull dc gran calibre, y lo dispart en dircccion del intruso que huy6 sin aguardar d mds. Esta aventura anodina nos hizo viviralcrta, y resolvimos tcnertodas las noches cnccndida una hoguera que uno de los indios se encargaria dc alimentar por turno. Al otro dia los indios se pusicron a trabajar para establecer definitivamente nuestra vivienda; otros marcharon cn busca de la acemila perdida, d la que encontraron d dos leguas de distancia, tumbada en el suclo, con su carga encima y medio muerta dc cansancio, de hambre y de sed. Los indios le quitaron la carga, reparttendosela entre ellos, mas aquello s6Io proporcion6 un aliyio momentdnco al pobre animal, porque el cazador que acompaftaba a los peones, mat6 un hcrmoso jabalf que el asendereado mulo hubo dc llcvar al campamento. La llcgada de aquella pieza dc caza fuc acogida con exclamaciones de contento; con clla tenfamos came fresca, y yo creia que duraria muchos dias; pero no contaba con el apetito dc mi gentc, pues no bien se hubo descargado cl jabali, lo desollaron, descuartizaron y asaron, de suerte que por la noche ni mcmoria qucdaba de el enorme animal habia pasado d sus estomagos como si fuesc un conejo. Por fortuna el bosquc era abundantc cn caza, y fdcil nos fuc repetir mds de una vez el mismo festin. A eso de medio dia, y cuando los indios acababan de almorzar, llcgaron los canoeros, atraidos por los tiros y los gritos de sus compafieros. Les pregunt^ al punto por cl estado en que se encontraba su trabajo y por la canoa que se habian comprometido d construir. E l carpintero me contesto con cierto embarazo que aiin no estaba concluido nada; que habian cortado muchos drboles cuyos troncos, despues de desbastados, rcsultaron impropios para la construccion de la canoa; que era un contratiempo del que ellos no tenian la culpa, pero que en pocos dias terminarian su tarea. En seguida, los acompafi<£ d un astillero que habian instalado un kilomctro mas alld, y en cfccto, vl dos drboles en ticrra, uno de los cualcs, labrado d hachazos, prcsentaba la forma vaga dc una canoa, pero aun no estaba vaciado el interior, y si aquellos tunantcs habian neccsitado seis dias para hacer tan poco trabajo, calculc que neccsitarian mds de ocho para terminarlo. L o que comprcndf en ultimo resultado fu£ que se habian burlado dc mf y que habian pasado el tiempo en cazar, cn pescar y cn darsc buena vida sin preocuparse poco ni mucho dc mi expedicion, poco m£nos que compromctida por su culpa. Ocho dias de retraso, era la ruina para mf; porque, a pesar de tener d mi gente d racion, las provisiones se agotaban d ojos vistas, y aun cuando las calculi para cuarenta dias, era indudable que no durarian veinte. Volvf pues al campamcnto muy inquieto y sin saber que hacer; yendo por la orilla del rio, podia llcgar enfrente de las ruinas que cstaban al otro lado de la orilla izquierda, pero tenfamos que abrir una senda de diez y ocho d veinte kil6metros cn lo mds intrincado del bosque, y cuando llcgara d las ruinas tendria que construir una balsa para cruzar cl rio. En este caso no podria llcvar conmigo mas que una parte del material, y tampoco tenia la seguridad de que todos mis hombres quisieran seguirme. Habia contratado los hombres y las caballerias para el paso dc Yalchilan y no irian mds alld, porque cuando les LOKILLARD TOWN, 443 now mutilated, is crowned by an enormous head-dress, of peculiar style, presenting lions, topped a by fantastic head huge with a diadem feathers like those on T u l a and Chichen-Itza. The and medal- the columns at bust is admirably proportioned ; while the dress consists of a rich cape embroidered with pearls, a medallion on each decorations. The shoulder and in front, recalling same ornamentation is seen Roman on the lower part of the body, having a much larger medallion and a fringed maxtli. The a r m s are covered with I.ACANDON VASF.S FOUND AT heavy I/>RILL*RD bracelets. Round CITY, the idol, and in e v e r y apartment of the building, are a number of bowls of coarse clay of some 4 or 6 inches in diameter by 2 inches in height. representing faces with of artistic feeling. xuorthy, The and may borders arc ornamented with flat or aquiline noses, utterly masks devoid the difference of type is noteituo different races. These bowls Nevertheless |>oint to were used a s censers, for some are still filled with copal. • cut shows two specimens. Similar bowls are found in all Our the buildings which were used as temples. T h i s temple is pierced by three openings, with stone lintels fairly carved ; its facade is about 68 feet by 1 9 feet 6' inches 444 THE ANCIENT CITIES OF T H E long, its height to the decorative wall is the latter, of lattice-work, structures at at Uxmal. is K a b a h , and The the central upper wall is a 17 feet to 19 feet; feet high, and recalls similar more particularly the Pigeon House decoration 14 WOki.ix NEW must h a v e been v e r y rich, for in large panel which was occupied by a figure sitting on a bench which is still standing. T h e masonry which formed the body of the statue is yet visible, while a narrow long stone to the right formed the shin-bone of the left leg ; a method of working which w e pointed out at Izamal, and A k e , and called the " c e m e n t e p o c h . " figure's Palenque, Below in the great frieze forming the body of the edifice, three large were also occupied b y statues, panels which w e r e still standing. In the central panel to the right, the masonry which formed the bodies before the fall of the plaster is still v i s i b l e ; while eight niches, in g r o u p s of two each, contained idols of smaller dimensions. On the first which to j u d g e house. This esplanade of the pyramid is another building, from its inner arrangement was the priest's temple is neither stately nor ancient, for hardly any rubbish has accumulated at the foot of the building. \\ e g i v e here the drawing of a diminutive ancient temple in terra cotta, to be seen in the T r o c a d e r o , and which w e found on the Uplands of Mexico. It consists of a pyramid with three or four stories, and a temple crowning its summit, with cornices surmounted by a decorative exactly like the temple at H o u s e at Uxmal. knowledge religious projecting wall, pierced Lorillard, at T i k a l , and by the holes Pigeon T h e most prejudiced mind cannot but ac- the resemblance and architecture of similarity the plateaux, and of design that of in the Chiapas, T a b a s c o , Y u c a t a n , and Guatemala. T o the rear c f the temple, on a much higher pyramid, stands the loftiest and largest monument at Lorillard. esplanade w e r e six palaces, forming a rectangle. On its vast O n e of these 445 palaces, having stone lintels finely sculptured, is still partly standing, but so decayed that we could do nothing with it. for the other buildings, they are a ruinous heap. The openings had stone lintels, while those of the large As narrow entrances were of wood ; this was probably owing to the difficulty of procuring blocks of stone of sufficient size for the main doorways. Remains of wooden lintels and zapot£ wood are still found in the walls. T h i s building, whether it was the cacique's residence or a fortress, is admirably situated, and from the upper terrace a magnificent over view boundless obtained. extending woodlands is It should be borne in mind that in an unhealthy, burning climate, dwellings on summits of were necessity for pyramids the a health, pure air, absence of mosquitoes and other disagreeable insects ; that is the reason why we invariably find buildings of any dimensions supported on mounds and The palace we terraces. inhabit is below the temple and on the first grade of the hill or amphitheatre. temple, W h a t remains of its decorations but ruder and more dilapidated. is like that of The doors the are irregular, of different size, with slanting or perpendicular jambs and niches distributed without any order. which crowned the building The decorative wall has fallen in ; the frieze is a confusion of holes, niches, and projecting stones. but T h e inner arrangement is rather peculiar, being a maze of narrow passages, small apartments having platforms of masonry covered over THE 446 ANCIENT WOki.ix C I T I E S OF T H E N E W with plaster, which may h a v e been used as beds. narrow platform, occupying the centre of the A n o t h e r long main passage, we thought w a s the dining-room, and w a s used as such. T o the rear, in a subterraneous portion which is reached by a very steep passage, are two narrow apartments filled up to the ceiling, which were probably tombs. T h e y reminded me of similar chambers at Palenque, in which I found skeletons and vases. PLAN OF PALACP. W E INHABITED AT LORTLT.ARO. No. I, Shafts of SculpturcI Columns No. 2, Niches. No. 3, Entrances. No. 4, L a r g t Passages. Nos. 5 and 6, Niches with PJatforms. No. 7, Inner Chamber. No. 8, Cement Table. No. 9, Sloping P a r a g e s leading to Subterraneous Apartments. No. 10, Low Walls. No. 1 1 , Killed Tombs. No. 1 2 , Altar. No. 1 3 , Back Issue*. T h e facade of this building is 65 feet by 5 2 feet long. Two fragments of sculptured columns, about 2 feet in height, the use of which is not known, but which m a y h a v e been altars supporting household g o d s , or pediments for censers, are found in the front yard. On clearing the edifice of its vegetation, I found that the a v e r a g e of concentric circles, showing the a g e of the trees, were ten or twelve a year, just as at Palenque. LORILLARD I may being remark destroyed TOWN. 447 that virgin forests h a v e by insects, moisture, no v e r y old lianas, etc. ; trees, and old monteros tell me that mahogany and cedar-trees, which are most durable, d o not live a b o v e 200 years. I n our p a s s a g e through the forest, e v e n on d a y s when there w a s not a breath of wind, trees were falling in e v e r y direction. In a storm they fall about in hundreds, and the j o u r n e y is then most dangerous. Monu- ments cannot be g a u g e d , therefore, from the size of the g r o w i n g in and over them. trees A n o t h e r feature of virgin forests is that they do not strike the mind as anything particular, and I know none which can at all compare with Fontainebleau. T o the south-west of our residence is another g r e a t pyramid, having circular buildings, which must h a v e been a temple, for w e found a great number of v a s e s for perfumes, both on the ground lloor and in the upper portion of the edifice. The body • of the monument is of the usual type, but the first story (a side of which is shown Indian in our cut) affords a mode of building. the decorative w a l l ; new specimen of the W e think this but an extension it consists of a narrow apartment and of a receding passage e x t e n d i n g from end to end, terminating at each extremity with the peculiar opening seen in our drawing. W e h a v e also noticed a g r e a t e r variety in the triangular vaults (arches) of these buildings, which are either straight, concave, or c o n v e x ; sometimes the latter vault has no key, and the two walls meet with an acute angle, whereas in T a b a s c o and Y u c a t a n , they are straight or concave only. richly sculptured than Lintels are more numerous and in Y u c a t a n , but they are only found in edifices which w e suppose were temples or palaces. T h e best carved are small, and seem to replace both the slabs covered with inscriptions, the rear of altars, and the sculptured pillars of the buildings at Palenque. T h e first we g i v e occupies the central door of the temple, and 1* THE 448 ANCIENT C I T I E S OF T H E NEW WOki.ix is 3 feet 9 inches long, by 2 feet 1 0 inches wide. Two figures with retreating foreheads form the main subject, h a v i n g the usual SECOND T E M P L E high OF LORILLARD. head-dress of feathers, cape, collar, medallion, and maxtli like the i d o l ; leather while their boots are fastened on the instep with strings, as similar figures at Palenque. They arc different size, and represent probably a man and a woman of per