W W W . B HOW TO STORE YOUR WOODEN PADDLES If you haven't already invested in a paddle rack, then now is the time to do it. Solid wood paddles are susceptible to warpage, over time, if stored improperly - especially if left standing or leaning against any wall or surface. Even to lay a paddle flat can cause damage when other items are invariably thrown on top causing scratches, dents or even a bad twist. A D G E R P A D D L Oiling Wood Paddles, Gunwales & More The following information and more can also be found on our website at www.badgerpaddles.com and on our blog at http://badger-canoe-paddles.blogspot.com/search/label/ maintenance. Clean paddle well (with fresh water) and dry completely. Gently sand roughened spots (if needed) with fine sand paper - 220 then 320 grit - taking extra care around the logo, etc. Use your bare hand or a lint-free cloth to rub oil all over the surface of the paddle. We usually recommend our Badger® Wood Oil, Tung Oil or Boiled Linseed Oil. The best way to store a paddle is to hang it (vertically) in a paddle rack. Leave to sit for 10 minutes or so and then return to wipe off the excess oil with a lint-free cloth. Next, leave until dry (may take up to 48 hours or longer if the air is moist or humidity is high). Paddle racks come in all shapes and sizes, and are made from many different materials. Badger® Paddles’ racks are made of wood. Plus don't forget, all paddles should be stored indoors, to protect them from the elements and sun damage - as well as any temperature fluctuations - in order to prolong the life of the paddle. Transportation Woes: Most damage to wooden paddles and their finishes actually occurs during transport. Badger® Paddle Socks are a stretchable onesize-fits-most bag that protects your paddle from unnecessary scrapes, scratches and scars. Compact and lightweight, our socks are perfect for transport or storage. Quick to put on and and take off, and able to fit multiple paddle styles and sizes, our Paddle Socks are an economical way to help prolong the life and finish of your paddle(s). www.paddlesock.com Repeat steps 2 to 5 until you achieve the desired results. (usually 1 to 3 coats is satisfactory). Note: You may “wet sand” the paddle using the oil for a smoother finish or rub with superfine steel wool or sandpaper between coats of oil. Touch-up of worn spots can be treated with oil when they occur (preferably). If a too heavy coat of oil has been left for too long or you get a gummy feel to the finish - get out your fine (waterproof) sand paper again and "wet" sand (with a bit more oil) then immediately wipe the surface of any residual oil and leave to dry. Note: if the oil has been applied too heavily, or penetrates too deeply, you may have to check back within in few hours as the excess oil may seep out during this time. If this does occur, just wipe away the extra with a clean rag and leave to dry (checking back again as needed). Amount of maintenance required depends on amount of usage and means of storage. To preserve the beauty and strength of your wooden paddle, we recommend you oil your paddle(s) at the beginning and end of the paddling season at minimum. If the paddle sees heavy use, then oiling the wood frequently is best. For best results, use Badger® Wood Oil or the traditional boiled linseed oil, Tung Oil Finish or your own mixture. Badger® Paddles... for those who dig the water. E S . C O M Note: “Oil” or “Oiling” can refer to a few substances: Tung; Boiled Linseed; Badger® Wood Oil (Hemp); a homemade mixture of oil & spirits (which also helps the oil to permeate the wood and speed up drying time); or a store bought concoction (e.g. Tung Oil Finish) Varnish Maintenance To truly keep your paddle in it’s best condition, a varnished paddle should be checked for any “scars” from use at the end of every season. “Scars” include nicks or heavy scratches or other abrasions in the varnish finish. “Scars” can be caused by coming into contact with rocks or other hard surfaces while in use or at play. These “scars” should be sanded out first (if possible) and the entire varnished surface be given a light sanding with a fine sand paper. This helps the new coat of marine-grade varnish that now must be applied to have better surface adhesion. You may only want to "feather-out" the scar by sanding lightly. Not only will this be easier but it will allow a natural patina to acquire on your paddle. These scars may even hold memories for you. In the case of really deep scars, you may need to fill with a coloured wood filler, sanding level before finishing with a good quality marine grade varnish. Before varnishing, wipe clean with a soft cloth or a tack rag to remove any surface dust. If you are only varnishing the blade of your paddle - use painters tape to give a clean edge-line to your finish. Using a brush made of natural fibre or sponge, brush on the varnish according to the manufacturers directions. Hang to dry in a dust free environment. From Varnish to Oiled If you are wanting to apply an oil finish to your paddles or gunwales/gunnels that are varnished then you MUST REMOVE THE VARNISH FINISH FIRST or the oil will NOT penetrate the wood. This can be done by hand sanding using coarse grit sand paper or - even quicker with a machine or handheld power sander. Be sure to wear a dust mask to ensure you don't breath in any of the varnish dust. When the wood is bare again - begin the oiling process as described above making sure that the first time you are oiling the wood that you use multiple coats of oil. Once the finish has started to build - maintenance will be more simple, needing less oiling during the maintenance process then the first time you apply the oil to just bare wood. CONNECT WITH BADGER® ONLINE [email protected]