PDF (Chapter V. Life on the istmus)

CHAPTER V.
tirE ON TlE JSTI1'ItS — ID' tI:.\tii ASI) COnMERCE—Citin'
jNit:SrflV llEvoI.rrlox - u' 11)_tv;, — l;uLi.-: C.\SItGS 111_tu 101 ,1, a:ocIss lu — N Alt ltI.1- ¡LACE.
A X Aiitcticftjt once mote hts CoitsiilGeucral ¡u Rio de
Janeiro asl mg for a u fot rna t toti att reference Lo the cliriette of Brazil, titad ciosed[lis ktter Unos 11QW do peopie lave?' Tu.: Consul-Gciaciai vattilv replied tliat ti aH
d ox'tiiieii ori ¡he 1 ¡ver. in Panaitati and oit Llió lsthiotts
geiav:aiiy. aH (toes 'lep.?tld upon tite liver.
It goes watitout sayiug ti,at a regular life in all turvid
clitutites as I($ OWIL 1 CWZIL d Pv a ¡'egitiar lafe 1 incati
soinethntg after ti ie 1 oiiowsti, wiuclt as tite réginie
oí 111.111y a esaCcnts w ttlt i ti troncal totatat tes - Cern ng
np eri y— say nt six oc seven—heginning tIte doy sviih a
i,íttia, aaad rlien codee and reUs. Tite breakfast as &ILPII
at eleven or (wel ve, ajad isa brcal;fast, properly sil
In ici ti pci ate e It natcs ni any w OH Id ileciaz a:.
cal lcd
ca raer. 1, tu C013i ttIOB WI Lii 113,111v oId t'esidents of tite
tropies, bega it ¡tu nc Uy a akang sot nc rape f ni it, fol 0wmg aL ivitIa a beefsteak, 1otatoes Otad coifee. 1 ¡tiade niy
nienis smi pie snci t tesil It u ig iii tite gien test gooti ¿unE
tite suanllcst inconvemence 1),niaer nl, sux, ajid dinner
s It ¡5 understood ¡ti all Anglo-Saxon countrles, fohloived
¿l
liv quwL O ve ial ng mtil goaug to hed cari y. Tite regular
it fe pavs ah- ays it gi ves t tic nttx aun tú of Iiealth aud
tite a itt j i itia ni of ti iconv c-ntence Ma ny ' y en] d vote sucia
a lafo siow. Ma y lap j I. ls 1)111, it keaps ana disease-resistirig powers ¡iii tu tite iugliest standard, nrtd in a
source of conununi confort,
A woril a u reki-ence te tite use of alcohol, beer ¿md
\vane Froin ¡ny profeional experienee, atad as the
resuil of neariv eaght yenrs personal observation within
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it.
En';: }EAflS ¿IT PANA-VA.
1,1
tiro trcpies, and having 1 r:ed both ritoderate stimulation
Ot (Ile ono hand, nud total nbst menee un (]ic other, 1
CtITI ÜIni iv øf tJiC O)ItiiOli, that tlie peopli \v!io best resist
such wretched cl:inates and riiake tlie Ucst ligia against
dise.'u,, ;n.o lliú total al.sta:nors
Ti re yellow foy er of tite lstliruus of Pana:na 1s peculini ¡y ma lig ant 3 iscuse. 1 tau tecali fotty -one a !l fl)15
sioi's Lo tho Chcuitv 1 ospitaI ni a kw weelcs following
mv nr val oit t)me Iszhmus iii 1SSO. Not a single man
cscapcd. Of seven aud twciity aidmissaons to thc Oflicers' Vard of dic Canal Ilcspizals Qn the Panama sido,
ovic man enly escaped. tu case nfer case ni praenee.
leath was dic rule ami rccovery tire exceution. \Vi:iie
it is ti-tic tltat sorne total ahstaitiers oii 1l).2 1St limus flavo
boca swept awov by yellow fever.
can 1tecali turco
deperato cases, ene beiiig my osva, which liad been
abandoned ami in wltieb death \vas looked fur. Al!
recoverci, tlinnk, te :vbstemious liabn&
fle idea that any human heing ¡ir hot ellmatQs roqlilros alcohol is : i n oid time :aytli, kept up by thoso
who l&e tu d1 ivilt No fact is hetter inown tu cvery
studout of l ropa-al 'listase tiran that t he livor of oven
total abstcincrs becoines so:itev.hat enlarged Why,
Sflv YO LI
Rc-iueznbcr tlie coristont mala rious condtt jons
aud b:zjr iii nnnd that ¡Ti Leinperate clilties the ot'gaus
ll a ve tIten' own Lur share cf work. Ja tho troplcs,
un mcd iat clv svitHn t he ma la ¡'utl a ¡vi vello w tever btU,
tvltet'e tliere is such extreme heat ami constant moisture,
the 1 itngs are u vio Wc Lo .10 a! 1 (>l tI idi' sU are, nI) ti fl pan
of it 1 i lis u fOl t t ire Ii ver. in keepi vg w t?i v.'ei !-k r:ow rl
physio)ogtcal laws (las becantes sliglitly c-nlarged. Ufe
wjlh:n dio tropic theretore doe-.. ....lereni oit tire liver, as tbe quiek-wittecl CvnsulG eneral aL Rio said.
Aziotimen poin ,, ¡ Ti thi5 COnnectica. Viere isa general
belio! i'ield by ritan I)igl)lv intelligent pcc'p!e that. a res:dence wi Lb la hoz COLI nt ries has a lan rked tendenev tú iu
e) case thc sexual iutiucts. Suei is itot tIte case. The real
expla nation of it is ibis. Tite majoi-ity a re a tvay fi-orn
the refl:ting influences of cnrly culture and home Irfe,gcnct-ailv tliey aie single inen,—int ti wat-ineimate whoro
2
18
Fn.]; r.ins
41T lux.UfI.
alt Lite toii,itt:utIS u o StippVSCd LO todicc general rel:xU
atioti 'fiiviC )b little bveiItlY opc u Lo such mc:i
1 itv% bect,i n úi ie ji tite bu) 5. ''—a ti Li t ge vaSt. fliIJOVI Y
do. t tun is tu e ci itl of ti, ami general y of t Ietii Lo<>,
tuca: s U te g.itiibl:ii6, a ni oti, cr d :strnekw tia Is ¡,ola¡.,.
tior is.ini gely floJC pa$er (te fenzps Su ch inen reztd i ly
1 geÇQ Ile Viti' U1S tu U he t?C. No 1 teL is bcter li nc vii (ti
s:nJcn t of vcltow te ver thai' Lli;i 1 tite verv moderal e
(1rilt1eN—IneIl wht. hayo llover lacen scott u:tdt-r Lile
;tiiion; tleo e;ir)iest vtcti'ns in a'.
uiihttc'aec of iaquor
ziitri:ies
of
yeliow
fevc,r,
ami tliev are los-, froit, lite
ei .
1 W1SI 111v readers to ttiiderstand that 1 ant o
¡lo SCDEC a tel iu l ael ¿tuco lectitici, itol am 1 a total ab
SLIIICI jau'periy su calicil , 1 sunpy tical vttIi ilie actual
f;uets 1 Di. Johuisuti, 1 in bis adiutiabie 1,00iz, sulunla
II?kS tite VIiOW lu ig vhteti tIC 1 tsCtiSSCS bis it felong
ex pc raetace iii tite Etst 1 tutes Ile te ers Lo tito ios of
itot nc úr correctivo i tul tICtICeS, mi i i tite a t tael aVe ti iveri,tOIi th'tt ¿it Iu.,t ale jtleastirrthlc and finallv cttueg)c
clic victuin art cltatits of los otvii lot giitg. ¡le dtctisses
Lite NvIul1t qnestioii as ono wott)d cNpcct of a man of bis
111,11 tau el 1 igeitee a id vast ex ponente , ami he m a u tui ly
e:tils a spnde a spade. Pelen mg tu iiis long expei ieiiec
in Imita, bol in tui ita iv aid civil circies. he dw el!s un
ti e mi las Ido Ii ;gb 1)' seasoned boU. ct)i:Sta u L sta una 'Ja 110711
md wanb uf o>etcise ¿niel lteaiLliv euiijulen inent of lual
¿mii uniod, nitU titen it, a :n:asteriy va> dcii ty si,ows
how liese le:tuj (o vuees a itd liad it veas, ant luow tIte
Enlusli 'inniri Ltie eliiuutte, vinci: is bztct enougia ira ah
cotiscitice, Ni litio tbcv sl1otthi clamu tl,eins'Iv es. These
tnodeiate dru:ilcers lake liteir pegs, niny Ix two co' tu: ce
a da)' .A'' peg ' as a guod st t 11 dose of liii itd y and a
bottie o í Englisli seda VaR..• ELio ¡jame pcg beuiug a
refemence lo ;iiaother tiatil in theii coiflus. Tite pCOt)Ie
w bu induje iii time pegs ale tiol lay i ¡sg 11 1) 1 ieusti te lar
• At ido en \'chtow Fo y er, Vol Ji . Z:ellLscn's Encyctoptedia ó
atr,hi&'i;ií
t ?fli,t), TS,i'nneai RcpÓst. Board of 1 leal:):, State of Callfornu', 1656
Antele mi Vcihot Fc' dr
1 11 bastases of ¡Lot Ch,nusca," London, ISiO.
F1I'E YEil!:$ ¿IT PAN:iMA.
19
ie2iiSClVc-S flhIi)Vtt quite
t
tite contra I\
111 ter ¶.)aev
¡ji
le ita rztcssed te a ir ver (bat iv 111 rna k e ti reír Ii ves a Liiiden ti) tlueinei \'es atid tú titer r fantrizes The lijo: ii oí
alt tlits ¡.S ¡Ceo1, out oí (he trop'cs ti veu can Shc.uld
neeessi ty lotee you wi t Ir it 1 licin avoid MI foinis of
nIcol oh, (11.0 von xxt;tv sp:ud Von r iater •tays it penco
nird
I,OIII [UIt.
A!1\Ofle
W
t i) has ¡ ravel lcd cxtens:s'eIv ni
tire trotncs—i refer Lci t he \Veat Ititi ie aud tite 1 tepic-al
pc' rt tetis of Central ZLI ul SuLI (It Ar eci ten — can t cli yot i oí
tiozeas oí ixoille vtntug 1 cilws who 'nave golie tltrtlxt:r tu
scik ¡ame aral Loxtulio. Lxi t tvlti, liave LUCLI \V1e0k0(i
alt nost Al t he oti (sol. by tixit general reinxa trnn. sv It tel t
ignora itt peop!e ciutige Lo tito cffc-t g e f 10 di, ixxtt ç-,
i nstca ' i of attn!ntzng it te bad isociatcs. 'vine fltid
woltielt 'l'ito cli mato is ixoL rcs 'orisibio (he ntç'rt:i ir Lv
i tttte tu witat of firixaijes- ant) thos' coricetive ¿ruin
erIces so ncccssatv ter tite l)(sL '-4 iis.
Tite vrade a ial con uterce of Patiamnaud \iCuZI U y is
maite np largely of gooiis
lit fi orn ami ro v:trtotIs
paris of lite world. Prodirc;s [-ci» tire ricirrc hLntIs
(fl035 tite lE ¡tutu 5 fi cnt p a ita ¿ira t'> Colon, titeue tc' Le
dtsti-i i,xitc 1 Lcr tite varicus Stenin corupaurlea
for (he \VeoL
Iridios, Europe, thc- United Sta (es of AxIx:i ka. nial
Canada Tltosx by way uf Cc'lour tu Panarit;r ¡irt , lizuirlctL
o ver to (he sten in Carners en tite inivitir gmng Set u Lii si
Chili and ¡'en.r, north (o Co:utz-at jorren nish Suri
h"IZLIIclsco, nuid (LOItI Dile latterto tru ns Pite: fle pos-ls
Tite loral unde nt t he St ate oí Pa: tanta :5 la rgc-lv suppi ied frcuiiu ti te city oí Pa ant Ña '[be 5w Le cf 'aun :n is
(lic c,arcir:e nerthe:-n "Ti(¡ ni South A rut-rica, unri (ovni-
untas tui tIre Dtpar'Lnients of CItIrIqLII inri Vr!i'agxia-Q,
vhei'e Lite ¡tutor join the FoutherIl hu,tundni-v of Costa
It ICfl, ox' ti te exilen te Son ti btU BOpuhI e of C:i-n i tal
A menen.
A te" yoars zugo cine of (he etdnig uutdustrics of tite
lsthmnus 'Vas tite e\porl:ltuciit of crudo india rirhuxor ¡Ls
val nc a tu oso dat's tvas considera l,ic, aud Ligal IISL sttcii
cansigi ir' tenis tite nteroha n Ls cf Pa ira u rzt am tI Colon di
ti;,i r lixiN oí eXelIa:igt
'l'i;e lsthtniis cf i)arieu, Lo tite
rrnthc-zist, of the SUite of Panaimia, VaS inc oí tito Cht1f
20
r1 VE YEARS 4T PANÁ111.
dcpartments furnashzng thaL elastie gu in. Ivory mUs
Lile iatter t)ic fru 1 of a
vcie also :tn 1 :iaportttnl ¡ten),
species cf paint
'llie Suite oi Paitama as atore of a consuiater than a
produeer. U wall be i:teraU y Irue te say that liar daily
hatail depends oit tlour ficta San Fi aiicisco ami New
York • ;uid the sanie ilting is true of Lile greater pan of
liar provisionsand vegetabiesof ¿iii kinds. fltetradeand
importa:ice of Lije lsthaais of l'anaiita are dna merely Lo
as situanon. ¡lcr niruiufaçtures are now, as all ¡ndus•
traes are, liaiadtcapped uy prepostc:ous eoxiccssions. Ono
day tite questtoii was askcú art itiy laearing, \Vhat za
the le:tdtiag iwiustry of Colombia ? A quick.wittd,
talen tal Coloi idi LIII ¡ asta itt lv re pl ¡cd, '' Revolut ion.''
So ¡Lis, It as ateneo a profcssioaa. a scacnce. ami a gamo.
Dr. Rafael Nttnez, tite t'i'csadent of the Repzabiic of
Coloitibia, dcciouriced it as a profossion in tite summer of
184, wLtic 1 was a resident ci l'a;iaata City. TIte la_st
revolution al March, 18s5, li:stroyeti Colon, par&vted
Canal work, upset traiisiL, and catusetl a veritablo rcagn
of terror, ami undoubted iv wouid Lave lcd te ube destruc'tton of PZ1InWI;L bat for Uie prontpt action of the
)3ritishi arad American CoiLsilis. 'fiae flrst naan-of-war
Lijare Wais a Bri tisb ene, aud later Ajuci ¡can vesscis of
war arris'ed ni nunibers, \v ¡ten Consul-General Thomas
Adamso:a, represcutirig tIte auterestc4 of that greal itpablie Lo tite north, took proinpt actiou aud it. \vas lic
vIio saved tite cuy of Panaina (ceta tIte (ate that destroyed Culoti.
INc holadays on tite Istit mus are a feature wortby tf
lengtiiy description. •Yhey are tite breaks in a moitotoiotis liR. Tite festival pal' c.rceflcnce as ttiat of tite 28tla
of Novemuber, or the aun i versiry of tlie sagiung of their
declarittiozm of independence. The 28t1j, 29 iii aiid Lite
aotb of November are devoted te bufl-teasings, horse'
racas, inaqueratling, cual oLLer sports Duri ng uno of
Leso festivals it htie cuelo or ternporary bali ring \VflS
pliL np in thc Plaza de Santa Aria, oiitside tite valla.
It was a substanlial strilcture foneed ro. Ahora were
coveredma palcos, or boxes One of thesc coukl be
FIVE TEJES AT PANAMÁ. 21
secured for tbo fiestas or Lolidays upan payment
oí
eigbtecri dollars, Orn holders bcing at liberty to puL in
as nian y as six cltairs.—You hayo te yotrr OWTI
ebairs tuero both ter mili fights and theatres, or stand.
'Ube bult-teasings non te tIre horse races are tiie events.
Ji y our palco or box is goed, (he whole seene passes
drrectl y beneath ycu. just as it does in Madrid Oit tite
lsthmus oí l'aflarna tlie auiimals are riot kille'i (be y are
teased. A buli. (he poinis oí whose barzas ha yo beca
savn aif, is lcd nito tire inclesure. Men speeiallv
selected and paici do Liso teast:ig. Tho bulisare froru the
eeunu'y and generaily
oí aro frosh and ready for combat,
but, as (he pairas
tito horns are era away, gorings
aro fuL in arder. Onoof thosodare•devil terreras fiaunts
a strip of sorne red material aL (he buil. Tho animal, it
garne, mak-es a furious eharge witen the man deftly steps
asido and avoids (he attack. It goes en and oir At
times feur and flve of Lhcsc, ¡non ma y be seori exeiting
the atiuial. Often dic me.n, it new (o tho work aM
ear&ess, are (brown clown, trtm pled upan. or throvn up
juno the al r, when vho c liers unnl3diatei y di vcrt the
animal aM drag (he man a.sn!o. AL al! such festivities a
bauid is in attenuanee. geurernity (hat oí sorne regirnent
in (he garrison. Wireriever (he slightest mishap ocenrs,
eitirer (o the men or te tire bu!!, tito niultitudo eheer
rnadly, tite batid plays, aud the wildest enthiisiasrn prevails. It is quite Spartish. iter haif in bmw or more
(he buil is fagged out, when to stiraulnte thc unfortiurato
nnruials dic banderilleros are called in Thev are ruen
who have nothing lo do wrth tite teasing Thcy are
arrned w!th a cruel .shaft. This is oí wood sorne eighteen
inches long, with a harbed ¡ron head sccure)y fastenod
Lo iLAt the other cml of Llic shaflt amid eolureti papers
ami ribbons, fireworks are concealed. Tite man attracts
tito atwntion of tite bidl ami aL tito right nromcnt. when
(he animal charges hini, lic deftly vhrusts (he banderillero between thc horuus and di-¡ves it into (he animal's
neck 1 should say that he has previotisly hghted (he
tirso front hisererlastineigarrctto. Havingsirccessfu!iy
placed bis shaft he steps aside. Jis bull-teasing tisis is
QQ
nvx YEAR$ itT PAYAMA.
-in exceedingly dangeroas par, of ilie piny.' fe [use
Liurin; iii Li l e buge (1 1-to llatjisg misses. They go off 'vitla
tlio repult of a gun tbey bttrn ilie hair miii ftesh of tilo
i (iii I%ttCd ant u ita). ivlio ni t laica ruad y roara, ji mps
clenit el! tite grouiid, aud vainly encleavors lo gct Jeni,
oí tlie Spantsh infernal maelune. This canses the wildest
u proar. Tite Crc)w (1 is frazitie ;vi ib joy Duri ng une
ca y uval soasen 1 nw tite mili resting ngainst in in.
clostire after tite 1 whcii a native gflt Qn Llie top
rail and eut tite birbed siiaft out leavi ng a wretcl icd
woti ml amI It tige U; i ni. 'FU is Literal ly devIfled becí is
latet' en ki ucd ami i un rketu'l. as is usual ibero. Tbe
ant ma s.nre fi 12111 sI i ecl te t lic atu Itor ties by tite lea di ng
butelien cf Palmita
\Vçli do 1 remember my tin,t bnIi-tc-asiiig 'fUe seene
below inc catiseci intense iier"ouS eXCitClflefl 1, aIt(1 SYlICIL
tiw uitfoz'tunaie aninial tossed a bauderillci o 1 oxelaitued
nlvud. '' Goc' d. g!oil " iii)' ay ni pathy Le: ng 5' holiy sri t it
the bu II. not with i:is ente! Un-mentor. A ¡in LnCIOStI i e
is an exceptioli lo lile tule, aeeideiits of Len hnppon, for
tlie teasinga tal;c' place in tbe s..1iiare aud lile throngs lile
nll nroiind it.s sities al any jioint of v:uitage. Oecasiono 1 ly lile Uit]l ittakcs a ehnrge te" aid tite crowcl
vhc-,t lliere Ls ti ru',lt, and often seriOus acciclenta hnppe:i
1 ],ayo scott a titan kiiockcd sensckss Later oh tlio
sanie (huy Ehe animal eharged out on tIte 81(10 street ami
alt tui &ilhed a passer-by. 'I'IIC bull-teasings St two
anul III IVC (18V 5 Ti ley are nl teriated svi ti, horse-inces
ttiid ivasq itetad&'s
Tiie mees oCR-a aro )teid en ilie IItaiII thoroughfare.
wlwn ninnY , fearfuti croppers are witnessed. (1110 tu tite
ntiiulEik ftilling ev ru ru)ilug ovar foolislt people and
cijiliren ss'h3 atICII2It te cross tIte street ss'hile tite racca
nro geing un A cc :deiit aftc'r accideni :nid death niter
tltatit huy e boca CntISL'd ¡vi ibis svay. 'lite Colonil,ians,
libe tite Central ami South Amet -icans 811(1 Meican, are
nnt ura! borsenica they rule as if titey were a part 'it
tlte iiores. and .'tt times v:tliout sacidies. ata pace tliat
"Voyage en Ez,p:.giue," anU:Ici, Paris, 1840.
FÍVK YE,l!S AT P.1N.13L•l.
1$ stnipiv tp}N.tlhiig Titotisaii.is fr...ti<:ii1 tite nice
Tite ;lLcipie 00:10 up io lhv tity (toin tite sttrroiiiiii:ng
L) tI e liiis nr viliag.'s te un 1 i e se ul i for ihe iesth ties
ihiie.e largo l'ifl$.SC$ encotilage t. he i cckless deis, and
ititoxteatcil Uy tiie appiatiFe tIiLV JitS (ti ti, vtetorv,
U r< en ljorie, ur SvItatever is al toad it is ti icir "ay.
A. masquerad mg seene 1 lierc is quite in kecpt:g tvitii
.¿ha 1 1 ]tuve tioted lo StT Iioti;is, Cuba, a d 1 la y ti
Nolbi ng gi ves a negro et bis desccndncits Suc!i intense
as te (lin fi mask rieti att otitiandisli gai ti a(1
;tniilç about thc si eets lr:zltig nial tniki:ig tu vretiicii
faiseiti vniço Ef he lis Sel tire ;i (ew wiinc uiilockci s
tI, is eestrrv. Tiiev caric:ttliie evetvtiiiiig; tic duiracttr
a mcmd — m g "s of c)iaiitv ptie0ts el ltitvonc.
t he duce days Uf tite fet i ' als Lid ivel 1 tute ti le it igli t.
ti iey and tltot r mcm icev itkc pta it ks ni 'ti sIn 1 vnice,
111:1) he Sevil rtntl lien, d
'Fuete is a gu cal ileni of
enuess. C)tir tistt':ults :ue :'e3lkc oíl Uy staLUn g aril
etitting. A tual IVP spuit. ciHeil :iwsaiio produces nioto
I i ri i uikeuui i ess a,LíI ¡llore dni,:e,i f,eitzv Lo tic sqilaie
in-Mi t Ii un a ny! hing t mt 1 1 'a ve seen r 13 te beie. \V lien
the uiegtues. nihitites ant 1 n'iuins icieli dial singo
tit'v ate iiglv ant! iiioodthuistv. It is nüt, uniisti;il (vr
tite fiestas Lo testilt in five ir st' deatiis apa.n fi cnn
w ot.ti,dv injtuineu able
1, 11C). nit carry fi le machete. ']' ji 15 1$ fl IOn g. 5W oil It Ice
icitife. tIiC utsepni alilo coitijai:ion <u ami tite lovar ci:isop.
It is a lineal desce:ilant of tite swortls cf ti,e e;triv
S1;iiaids siltu liad 14) cut, 1 iuour \'ay, 1 he :tt c ochni or
hall. witile ç;oluig tltrotigli tite woods Tite nativos use
lioso no:, ji ur kw ch rpm ng tsnod fol i ng tices cnt; ng
gtztss aiiçl caeij etitet juev ,ut:uko li pant ifni siligel y Si
a doctor 'fhe masses
¡ti 1 'aflatan are little better unu
sp niiciv l,,el, unU 'vhen uit no 1 bou !ial( tlriii,k titev me
absoluto savages
Aft.tr tinco 'lays of fest.ivities '
iInI)ridled hicense Itii ,>i3ii tIte lower c 1.ntses thc city
geis bock lo tus iisii:d rahu .ini tite enes of 'Viva
Colombia. " or lIni 1 Colombia,' are pu 1 a vny (0, Lile
next (ICCOSIOn.
\\itilc at lbanarna in March iast 1 acco'iiponie'i a party
24
FÍVE )'EÁRS AY PANAMÁ.
of friends te see a niglit prccession froni thc historie
oí belis t he
Qhtrrcb oí St Ana. W ¡Ui a feartiri cicingrng
processtori out
carne¡mm the sale doct of Lite cirri reir.
Tri fror: t 1 here \vas la fiaine, periraps sixteen feet
long by six wide. en whicli 'vere lnriltpa
ti series oí
suelves covered wrtb hig)ily colorcd c!oths On tirLe
wcrc, larnps. irnages, and vasos of ilowers. tho wirole surnrountc-d by a Iarge figure of tire Virgin. respterident ¡a
mrislin ar.d grit, arrtrdst a biae of )rht. The i.'rocessron
;vas preceded by no end oí VQIIiCn ¡ch CfI (lies ¡ti thcir
hands 1 failed Lo aseertair) sviint corineel ron, rí ¡mv,
ex:sted bet"tcn ¡]lean tite wise virgias that wc retid
oí. Tiie.n carne the bearors of tire Vwg'n :tnd Mter tirein
tite ciorgy, ah srnging. A nwiirber of aiim party, te ruy
naud, sutnmarzed ¡he whoie thtng sv han he said, ''It
ola loare oí nirsence." It is needlooks 111.0 a inmp shop
less to observo that 've UnCQVCI'Cd as it wc'nt by.
Wlter: arnong the Rornans," ele Late in tIre falu Ibero
ia a great rehigious procession sorrm bat of this type,
whca hundreds rnay be seen carrying candes, aud ¡¡le
V irgin aTid inany oí ¡he sarrr1 are canretl about itt great.
state Dic eve of Goad Fnday 15 inade a special festival
in tite ebureb [-,a
A figure of Chi ¡si rnay be seer' resting ora rts back.jirst
without ihe chance!, v,Lh ¡Ls herid towards tire tania
altar. Ti is a lifeirico figure. tire l:cad is covered wrth a
shocic oí hair; haib feet protiude from bcneath tire
robes, ¡he croivd surges torw'ard a nr) orre Uy orto reverently drop upen their knecs arid kiss tire rrg!it foot, gen.
crally tire great toe 1 can lien, su i te fc»' arr absoluto
fact chaL the great lee oí tire bU foot has licen grcntly
womn away br tlri.q ctrstom \Viriic tuis rs gOIrig on
crowds iii tire cburch cornposed of 'Yemen anO le<] hy
sorne awful ioolzrr4g oí(¡ crone, a negress orn rnulattress.
keep ola encilcss praytirs It is Babel Ono
ycar. wirtie a resident of Pariarna. 1 took rin eudemy
\Velshrnin arenad to seo the cirurcires t,n tire wve of
Good Friday. After seeing La Merced 'i , e visited tire
chiurehi oí San José (St. Joseph), in dO timo edifice Ola
altars md ¡ti giass cases were sorno nwful looking fig-
frivr YE11RS 47' ¡'-1 V11 11I1 25
tres. Near tito ailnin e.ntrarico on ';ttr right, on that
oceasion, was a itie•size':t liguP3 uf Christ. ¡ti a giass case,
cI;ci ¡a io'ati garments witli a feai ful wig upan 1 he llena.
it \V8S 311 ixr;tl)rdinarV spcct.acle 'lite oid gentletnan
ZLt J 11V Si' lo tooked :tt it i 1 ten liv anri svl
i :spered
tu
me,
He tic•c
no, look fi kv
k . ti genticinan. '' i'Iie reinaih-, bis
sw'iousuess, fiat' the silggesti vent'ss c:iiise.l ,rie tu get
otitside 1 nstttratly tu gi vu my mii Ui fair piav. 1 had
never ieoiett al it ¡.,a t bat way. TI e Sale 1 eligion in
ColoiitUa as that of tite Ohu 'ch E Ruine, oc, practicttlly,
it is che SOiC religion. Latteriy as, fetters ha yo been
1 rawn t igit ter a ud tigli ter.
¡it arder te sir Llie rnarket place a Panamo, ami it i
ight weli vorc1t secan;, yen has-e -ro gea uji jaist abo: a;
ti¿., Lame thac thc' Jin,c liglil begrtis lo shaw iii cito casI.
'lite bu.i bit ng as oí acetal, aníl tvas brough t 10 ti,,. city nii
readv te be put up. Reari mi ng it you are struck v atia
tite ntimbir oí people wlao are up atad out at that caris'
,! our. Tite place is fui 1 oí bern. Ti te marLet is da y id,d
1 itto seetioas, ¡ti cada oí \vhi ch is ami k 1 ud of ca w atacorial out of whacb tlic cooks SvIII unatanfaelui re dishes,
Savor' or tite reverso
Pan:uua ts aTI 1 nihan word
mean aig — a placa: aboti aid ¡ng art fis h, " Za cd as ro agli 1 be
¡ inagi :icd a lic' ira t ii o inn r i:o. a, verv large
it comes fi-orn time risca anti alio sea. There ls a kia'td of
ginnt catíisi a, wcigi mi ng (ram ten co 1 la clv pon uds. whieh
is vers' citen P n mi 1 ae refore pop: alar w it ha clac- pcMr ci ti SS.
A nocbnr cuan non lisla isa .s[aecaes of ba'eam u- ath enorInocis
seales Ot sea fisia. '[le red snapper is very IJeaaa.aI ol and
ver y good Sotiictames ene comes ueross a Jew ¡ish or
as ¶.t'oni Omingle c:alis it ni bis Log." ;a most noble Jev
fisli , ceastiv une oí ti 'e be u Unit as cnnjic Pa u k isli red
situ'aanps are piled ir, hnslcets and aInngsaile are otiter
piles nf turown-cnlna'ecl ha algs. tite fksI i of shai mps riried
3!! tac STa n. Dried lisi, as çoin mon a nr! fl ti 'is a readv sale
In the mc-nt ntnrket, hect as Ihe staile, alchaugli von seo
a&oTne pi: k anal sanie goat Tite meat as nU cut ni co long
str:ps a mi as sokl 1iv De vard \Vlaen slightiv sabed al.
as dried in t}ie sun and in this torna is tite- stapie iood. It
generaily srraetls so,netvhat toe stroitgly co be accoptahie
26
.nrp: ratns 11T P.iN1lihl.
to Furopen iis or Atnericans. 'JIte vegelables are fil c:e
1 leapS oit tite grcuund Y icas, yatns, potatocs, rice.
tai tis. CCIII, 111101 1$, gal he, Lea es .911(1 p° nro t 0 )nCt t.
cometen Soinetiti:es \ Oil set UI usseis spniIz, kt!c,
catilittower oi let titee, a itti iiow al id tu en a ti 1 in-cabba ç;e.
Tius eouslsts of tite youiig Ica v es atid lic:ut of tite cabunge t Ei b il , unU is raúler gitil. Of (mit tlic-ie ¡S flO etid
ti spt te of t he íe t bu Spa it ta t.1 $ CCII idrr tt ti nhcal t ir:.
,giIacflteS or cmi gcs. lunes, pa peyas.
ti teto: it, it ini igoes. Li tialtu, guaras and eocoa n uts are
tite ittçst caminen.
Tite system uf nini keting strikcs o strangcr as Ucing
odd. it 3s do:,e Lv tite cooi:s :IInI as tltey never btiy
:tore tha ti ji st enot igli (or ene dav, yoit 'vill toe in ti IC
woodeti bowis carnet1 on tito liewi, zi stntii 1 tlsh, a plece
oC iucat. ri yuca, o ynin, a tatidtii of gamite xn1d a r.
U111011 1
f<utr er fi
't liii
tWo
ilgoesa pinnt.niits,
CII pie of
nr ti treo limes, a It ti le viet in a Si Itfl 1 gatt mti, ami sorne
bread It is a gay seetie. 'vitit tite ivoiiien vnlkiiig nbot:t
a ecl eh a itet iiig isitil t he den lers, wi ele tito ni en ato
carrying in suppltes ('orn tite COIIOCS. StaUdIIIg ebont
a' 0 ititi id reds of tite pa tient ItU te dOIIkeyS so eharacter-
istic cf S}'anISII towas.