THE village of Navon contains about two hundred iri

190
CHAPTER XIII.
Navon—Marivifia—Cumbi - Cuenca — Quinois — Guaicunse—Mol latun—Yerba Buena—Cave of Chaeayaque—Naranjal—Arrival ¡vi
Guayaquil.
village of Navon contains about two hundred irihabitants, and the whole parish scarcely more than a
thousand, chiefly hidians. The chrnate differs little from
that of the othcr places through which our route lay.
Thc wet season commences in December ami lasts until
the beginning of May, but the rains are not coiitinuous,
and during the so-called dry seasori showers are not unfrequent. From May until December there are strong
gales of wind. Wheat is sown in February and March,
and ripens towards thc middle of August, and, as in
all elevated regions in South America, it grows scarcely
more than two feet high; potatoes are planted in December.
Wc observed near the honses a number of sticks piled
together, arid on inquiry found that they had bcen placed
there to enable the poultry to take refuge from the con.
THE
I847]
MARJVIÑA.
191
dors, which descend with great rapidity upon their prey
From these enemies the inhabitants ha yo a góod modo
of freeing themselves. An oid horse, inule, or other
large animal, is killed aid left in the fieids. A condor,
perceiviIg the dead body, desceuds, and devonrs so
much of the flesh as to be thereby prevented from flying. The nativos then throw over its head a poncho, a
square piece of cloth with a hole in the centre, and thus,
with the help of the lazo, make a prisoner of "the king
of birds."
On the 7th of September we continued our march.
tJie muleteers we had hired were so drunk that we were
compelled to send thern baek, and take two boys instead;
the mules also were inferior, and in crossing a river one
of thern stumbled, wetting two boxes containing sorne of
our most valuable spccimens- We hastened to reach a
habitation; evening however ovcrtook us on a grassy
plain, with isolated Bro2neliacece. Wc bivouacked under sorne bushes (Macleanias), but as it rained and blew
very hard we could not dry our specimens. To a naturalist there can be nothing so distressing as to see the
collections which he has formed with such cate, at great
expense, and often at the peril of bis Efe, on the point
of being spoiled. Wc were thinking the whole night of
our wet boxes, and startcd at the first sigri of day. The
night had been a rnost miserable one, and we svere exposed, without a tent, to thc fuil influence of the molement weather. Fortunately we SOOn reached the tambo
of Marivifla, and, making a good fire, ve set to work
drying our papen and plants—a task which occupicd us
several hours.
192
THE VOYAGE OF 1131.8. HERALD.
[Sptember,
We had great difficulty in obtaining mules and horses
to take us to Cuenca, having to catch them ourselves,
which, as the animais were very wild, was not accomplished without considerable trouble. However, before
dark we succeeded in getting to Curnbi, a village pleasantly situated in a largo valley. The cura of the place,
a fat, jolly priest, received us hospitably, and invited us
to partake with him of an excellent supper. He ivas
astonished at our not drinking the liberal allowance of
spirits which it is custornary to place before a stranger;
indeed di with whom we carne in contact were surprised
that we did not drink spirits, that we abstained from
smoking, aud that we washed every moming in coid
water. They told us that it was imprudent to wash
the face and hands so early in the day, as rheurnatism
would be the consequence. They still remembered an
Englishman, Mr. William Lobb, who had passed through
tite country a few years prcviously, and who, the inhabitants said, had been as fond of using cold water in the
inorning as we were. The natives thernselvos are very
reluctant to touch water, and do not wash thcmselvcs
regularly,—perhaps but once a week, or even at still
greater inter vals.
Soon after supper our host went to bed, and we were
conducted into a room destitute of aH furniture. In
Ecuador, as indeed in most parts of Spanish America, a
traveller is expected to carry his bedding with him; hospitality, though including food and lodging, does not extend
to a bed. As ive dispensed with that article, ve spread
out oui pillons (the coverings worn ayer thc saildies) on
the floor, ]ay down upon thom, and wrappcd ourselves
18471
193
CUMBI.
in our biankets. Bat as soon as the candie ivas extinguished uro were visited by a number of rats, which
rau about the room and over our boches, and begai to
gnaw at our boxcs. Fearing they rnight iiijure our collection, a part of which we liad scarcely dried aga.in , we
got up and cirove thom away; they returned however
thc mornent we lay down, so sve determiued that whilc
one of us ivas slceping the other should watch—an expe(lient which was the more nccessary, as, from nt having
siept the night before, we were both extremely tired.
The foliowing morning we started for Cuenca. '[lic
country was perfectly flat,—an agreeable change after
descending and asceiiding so many mountains rendered
slippery by the rains. Thcre were sorne fine meadows,
and hcrds of cattle—goats, horses, cows, and oxengrazing. Wc had the good fortunc lo join compa.ny
with two ladies who were riding into the city; they
were vcry commiirnicative, and pomtcd out everything
curious en the road,—the place where the miiil had been
robbed of a large amount of moncy (an unusual occurrenco in Ecuador), now indicated by a large eross, md
the loca.Iitics wherc somc of thc skirrnishes of the Royolution had been fought.
Wc rcached Cuenca at tui cauiy hour, and went te
thc house of Dr. James Taylor, a Scotchrnan, who received us with the greatest possiblc kindness. We
found Hiere a lctter writtcn by Captain Keilett, wbicli,
directing us te rejoin thc Herald as soon as possible,
co mpellc(I us to takc tlie nearest road to Guayaquil,
and abandon or plan of visiting Quito. Her Majesty's
Consul at Guayaquil, Walter Cope, Esq., luid miso sent
VOL, 1.
0
194
TUE VOYAGE OP 1T.M.S. HERAL1).
[&ptember,
Ietters to different friends of his in Cuenca, begging titein
to forward ant views—a request to which they acceded
most cordiaily.
On the 1 2th Dr. Taylor invited a number of frieitds
to an evening party in honour of our arrival. Many
healths were drunk, and dancing and siriging wcrc kept
up until a late, or rather an early, hour. The three
lEnglishmen living in Cuenca, Coloneis Ilarris and Talbot and Dr. Jervis, were witli us. The two former liad
fought through thc whole war of indcpendence, having
been amongst tlie first volunteers who swelled t he ranks
of Bolivar's arrny. Dr. Jervis was the nephew of the
Earl of St. Vincent, and, tilthough seventy-thrce ycars
of age, he vas very active; sorne of his anecdotes of thc
sea-service in which he was engaged were most arnusing.
The Doctor had been a long time in South Anierica, but
liad never learnt to speak Spanisl1 fluently, and his conversation was a strange mixture of Englisli arid Spauisli,
occasionally varied by a few words of Quichua.
Cuenca is considered the finest towri in Ecuador; it
is situated in a plain near the river Matador, and its
churches aud convents impart to it att air of grandeur.
According to Herrera it was formerly called Bamba,
vmd was fouuded by the Marquis of Cañete, when he
vas Viceroy of Peru. Like most towus built by the
Spaniards in America, Cuenca is divided into regular
squares. The streets are of inoderate breadth, a.nd
paved; the principal oites have a footpath for passengers, and through each there runs a strearn of water.
It has twclve churches, ineluding those attached to the
convents. Tu the centre of tlie city there is a largo
1847.]
CUENCA.
195
publio square (Plaza Mayor) with a fonutain in the
iniddle, and at the sides the government offices and the
Cathedral; three smaller squares (Plazuelas) are situated
in different parts of the town. The houses are built of
adobes, and are generaily of one, seldom of two stories;
the waJls are, en account of the earthquakes, of great
thickness. The windows are seeurcd with ¡ron hars, like
thosc of our prisons, but as the people bear tui exoollent
character, this is done more hecause glass is too costly
to be accessible to all classes, than on account of housebreakers. Nono of the publio buihuings are deserving
of particular description; the convents aid cihurches are
remarkable neither for their style, size, nor weaith. Tu
the college there were at the time of our visit about five
hundred students, who were instrueted in theology, Latin,
and Spanish. In approaohing Cuenca from Cnrnbi, the
traveller passes a fine stone bridge with two arehes, loading over the Matador, a decp and rapid river. A short
distance from the town are the remains of a bridge (Incachaca) built lw the Incas across dic river Talqui, or, as it
is also termed, Chaguarehimbana.
The population amounts te about 20,000, but 110 accurato census exists. They are chiefiy of Indian descent,
only one-third of the inhabitants being white; they cal]
themse]ves Murlacos, a name the derivation of which is
obscuro. The inhabitants hayo a fine healthy colour,
oven the Indians having red chceks. Diseases are fcw,
and those prevalont scem to be caused more by unelcanliness thau by the effeet of elimate. The costume of the
white men is Europea.n; the women wear the mantilla,
which, when waiking in the streets, is thrown over tlieir
o2
196
THE VOYAGE OF E.M.S. HERALD.
[&plernber,
heads, and sornetimes topped by a Panama hat. Cuenca,
being the see of a bishop, aud havhig several convents,
swarms with priests of nil grades. Shopkeepers are
also a numcrous class, every man sceming te take a
pride in having something Lo seli. However, the tosvn
cannot boast of any great commerce: Hiere used to be
a considerable Liude in blankets and flanneis, the produce of nativo industry, but since foreign goods may be
had cheaper, and at the same time better, it has ceased.
The Tndians still manufacture a cloth which appears to
be in use among all ranks. A few hides are occasionaliy sent Lo Guayaquil, aud many other raw proclucts
might be taken Lo that port if the trafflc were not rendered impoSible by the want of good roads. Wheat
fue people of Guayaquil are obliged Lo buy froin Chile,
although the highlands of Ecuador produce an immense
quantity. Coal is abundant in the neighbourhood of
Cuenca, and if therc ivas a higliway it might be soid at
the port of Naranjal at five or six dollars a ton. A new
road was being formed to the eoast; the part completed
was little better than a gravel walk iii tun IEnglish garden, but for Ecuador it might be called excellent, and if
finislied would be of incalculable value.
The people of CuSca, like those of the other places
through which we passed, eat more vegetable than animal food, and take several meals during the day. Early
in thc morning they drink coffec or chocolate; aL ten
o'clock they have breakfast, composed of made-dishes,
soups, cggs, etc.; and aL two or three o'clock in the
afternoon, dinner, which is rnuch the sume as the breakfast. Guinea-pigs form a favourite dish with every class,
1847.]
CUENCA.
197
aud, among thc Indians, te place thom beforo a gucst is
considered as a mark of honour. Supper is taken ni an
early hour. The courses are brought en the table in as
many platos as there are persons eating—every ene gets
a plato te himself; locro, a kind of soup made ehiefiy
of potatoes, conciudes every meal. If any ene finds en
his plato a goed piece, and desires te be polite te his
iicighbour, he hands it te him, accompanying the action
with sorne complimentary phrase. The wornen are not
allowed te talco their nicais with the men, but ha yo te
wait until the latter hay o finished. Therc are besides
several other eustoms toe triffing to mention, but all indicating a rather primitivo state of civilization.
Thom are no places of amusement; tite people seern
te pass their time in siestas, loungirig in the streets
aud plazas, smoking cigars, and taiking seandal. Tite
Quichua language is in general use, and even spoken by
the whites among themselves ; it occupies about the
same position as Platt-deutsch does in Northern G-ermany. Most of the people are able te read, especially
those born sinee the independence of the country, but
their general knowledge is himited, and of great
they hardly know any besides Bolivar, Humboldt, and
Napoleon; in geography they make sad blunders, calling
Franco, for instance, the capital of Paris
The Indians of the neighbourhood of Cuenca, and ah
those of Ecuador speaking the Quichua language, have
changed so little in appearance, dress, customs, aud
manners, sinee Pizarro's invasion, that the best account
of them would be a transcript of that which the oid
Spanish historians hay o handed down te us. Thoy still
198
THJ VOYAOB OF J{.M.S. IIERALD.
[September,
speak thc lariguage of their forefathers, and the vocabulary which we collected agrees wdll with the earliest
spccimens of Quichua published; the men still wear a
shirt, knee-breeches, and a poncho, all of wool, aud
made by their own hands; the women still dress in
petticoats reaohing a little below the knee, short bodycoats, ami a scarf worn like a shawi and secured en the
breast with a largo silva' pin. They have changed their
religion, and perhaps in many instances are sinccrely attachcd te the Roman Catholic Church, but at heart many
of them still venerate the inti (sun), and the part they
take in religious processions—dancing before the images
of the saints, and dressing in fantastio garments—woiild
scem to be more deeply rooted than in mere usage. Indeed it is not Iikcly that a people who in othcr rcspects
cling to oid eustoms wfth such pertinaeity, shoidd hayo
so easily been induced to chango what is dear Lo most
nieu-.-their religion ; for the Spaniards, after conquering the New World, did not adopt the coursc which is
pursued with so mach zeal and ability by missionaries aL
the present day. That instruction must precede conviction was a inaxini the Spaniards were not prepared te
uphoid: they were satisfied if thc nativos could be ind.uced to becorne nominal converts. Elenco we find that
the spirit of Christianity WaS seldom comprehended by
the Indians, and that in inany instances they worship
the Roman Catholic saints, believing that thcy are doing
liornage to their own gods merely with another name.
The Indians are strong mxl hardy, and are very numeroas in places where thoy ha yo avoided connections with
the whitos OF ncgroes,—for tuis, aftcr al], appcars Lo be
1847.]
CUENCA.
199
the great secret to preserve them froni destruction. Wc
hayo been toid repeatedly, that when a race becomes
extinct after having becoine civilized, it is because it
has acquircd all the vices and few or none of the virtues of civilization. This asscrtion however rnust be
regarded as mere cant; cioser investigation shows that
even if the highiy refined Enropean desired to instruct
the savage in new vices, he wouid be unable to carry
out his intention. Those who read oid historical works
and journais will find that most nations, bofore they
carne in contact with iis, were as demoralized as man
can possibly be. Even ardent spirits were by no means
new to most savage tribes; intoxicating drinks far more
noxious than ours were known to thom: the Mexicans
liad their pulque, the Peruvians their chicha, the Sandwich Tslanders extracted a beverage froni the Ki and
the Ay a piants, while the Kamtchadales were skilled in
obtaining a strong drink from the roots of the Spir&a
Xarntscltatica.
Thc Jndians are well aware that they have been the
iords of the country, and they are often heard to say that
if they steal anything belonging to a white man they are
not guilty of theft, because they are taking what originally beionged to them. iIow injnrious such reasoning
must be to society at large may easily be irnagined;
it proves thai the consequences of a foul deed—as the
conquest of Peru must be pronounced to be are felt
oven after the lapse of centuries. rrhat the Indians entertain a hope of freeing themseives from thcir oppressors, by "driving them into the sea," seems to be a wehl
established fact. Whether they are sufficiently united
200
TUE VOYAGE OP H.M.S. HERALD.
[&ptcrnbcr,
to act ni concert for carrying out this plan is difficult to
determine, but it has been ascertained that there is hn
alliance between nil thc Indians speaking Quichua, called
Los Gentiles by the Spaniards, aud the more barbarous
tribes living in the fastnesses of the prirneval forests
Should they persevere in their intention, they will find
it every day more easy, unless the face of tho interior of
Ecuador and Peru is greatly altered, for the white and
mixed population, since irnrnigration has ceased, or at
least been less nurnerous, is decreasing, while the Tudians, wherever they have kept themselves free from
intermixture with other races, are steadily increasing.
The cimate of Cuenca and its neighbourhood is agreeable: during our stay thc temperature iii the middle of
the day vas not higher than 700 Fahr., ami wo ivore toid
that slight night-frosts are not uncornmon in September.
The wet season begins in November aiid ends towards
the rniddle of Mv. The soil is fertile, producing abundant harvests of Jadian cern, whcat, potatoes, and Alfalfa
(Atedicago sativa, Linw). Tlie Aracacha, a root like
tliat of the Dahlia, and considered by sorne the finest
esculcnt tuber existiiig, thrivcs wcfl, a.nd is the more
valuable because it is not subject to so many diseases
as the potato and the cassava; ¡u Cuenca two vaneties of it are grown, the one has a yellow, the other a
white root. Those who take an intercst iii agriculture
will rernember that prizes hay o beei offered for the suceessfui cultWation of the Aracacha in Northern Europe,
hut that hitherto all atternpts to naturalizc this valuable
vegetable in aui' latitudes hay o proved ai)ortive. In
Ecuador the tops of thc tubers are cut off and left oit
1847.1
CUENCA
201
the fleid; their vitality is so great, tliat after they hayo
beon thus exposed for months to tlie influence of the
wcather, they iki11 grow as soon as they are put into the
grouiid. One would think that a plant of such a nature,
aud a native of the same country as the potato, might be
acclimatized with us, although experirnents nade scom
to lead to a contrary conclusion. With thc exception
of the different kinds of cabbage, which cannot be grown
except from lEuropean seeds, all. kinds of vegetablesturnips, carrots, Iettuce, peas, etc.—succeed well. Of
fruit there is a great variety—oranges, chirimoyas, bananas, plantains, apples, peaches, chamburos, and many
others. The gooseberry-shrub was introduced a few
years ago, from Enghand, by Don Horacio Alvarez. At
thc market provisions may be obtained in profusion and
extraordiriarily cheap: a buliock may be had for 248.,
a fat pig for from lOs. to 20s., a sheep for 4s., twentyfour eggs for 3d., and a cream-cheese, nine inches long
and tErco inches ja thiickness, for 6d. Vegetables, both
native and European, are offcred itt Iow prices; indoed
such a quantity do the pcopl& get for the smallcst piece
of moncy, that, if they want to buy thie provisions necessary for the day, they purchase eggs, and then barter with
thom for the articles required.
Ml orn domestie animals thrivc cxceedingly well, and
the prices of meat mentioned abo y e will show that the
rearing of cattle must be very easy. The llama is used
as a beast of burden, but itot frequently; Guinea-pigs
are kpt in great numbers, especially by thc Indians.
Indeed, not oiily at Cuenca, but in all thc towns and
vihlages of Ecuador throngh which ottr journcy lay, pro-
202
PIlE VOYAGE OF II.M.S. HEItALIJ.
[&ptcmóer,
visions were plentiful. The country only requires to be
in tlie hands of an active popiilation to be ono of the
most flourishing oit the face of the carili. Providence
has lavished upon it not only high mountains, extensivo
meadows, aM valuable Quina-forests, but a healthy ami
temperate climate, inexhaustible mines of aH kiiids of
metais, and a fertile soil, ami moreover placed it in the
centre of the inhabited globo, between one of the Iargest
rivers in the world, the Amazon, and the great Pacific
Ocean. Ecuador presents a vast fleid for enterprise, aiid
if the tide of ernigration which has now set in with snch
force towards North Arnerica ami Australia could but be
directed for a few weeks te Ecuador, the political and
social condition of the country would be ahered in a
short spacc of time. It is now so thinly peopled, and
inhabited by so limited a nuinber of whites, that about
twelve thousand immigrants would effect surprising
changos. They would not only exercise a most salutary
influence upon the elections, by piacing ¡he supremo
power in thc hands of superior men, but they wou.ld
also be able to destroy tlie omnipotence of the clergy,
who hay o hitherto resisted the publio exercise of Protestant worship; and they would have no difficuJ.ty in
keeping un order the negroes atid zamboes of Guayaquil,
the chief promoters of most of the revolutions that hayo
disgraced the annais of this republic.
On the 18th of September we bade adieu to Cuenca,
where we had met with such a warm reception. Onr
English friends gaye us nearly a mule-load of provisions,
ami Dr. Taylor ami Co1onls Harris and Talbot accompaiñed us sorne distance. Thc road was np hills which
I847.]
QIJINOAS.
.
203
were mostly welI-wooded, but after surmounting the
last of thom the country becarne opon and grassy. A
ride of four bagues brought us to the tambo of Quinoas,
where we remaiied for the night, and, as there ivas
nothing te be obtained, tlie provisions with which our
friends liad presented us were of thc greatest use. The
building ivas fuil of holes, exposing us te a fresh breeze.
IEarly in the morning it was excessively coid; hoar-frost
lay thiek upen the ground, and we were obligad to run
about in order te get warm
On proceeding the country became very interesting,
being covered with grass and almost destitute of treos;
rocks towering te a tremendous height, and in sorne
pIaes overhanging, imparted an air of grandeur to the
whole. About noon we arrived at the Punta de Caja,
considered te be about I4,000 feet abo ye the Joyel of the'
sea. On our right was a mountain covered with SUOW:
from the summit ve had a viow of about fifty lagoons;
there vere sorne fine shrubby Compositee growing near
thc top, amorig thom tlie curious Baceltaris tltyoi des,
Pers., wliich looks at first sight like the arborsrita
After passing the Punta de Caja we bagan to descend,
and found tlie temperature en the western side of the
mountains considerably higher than on tlie eastern.
The ground for sorne distance was covered with skufls
and other bonos of man, horses, aud mulas: a body of
troops, coming from the coast to attack Cuenca, had
been ovcrtaken by a snow-storm, and, escape boing impossible, nearlyall porished. In the aftcrnoon we enterad
a thick forest, chicfly composed of Podoc.arjwis-tices, aid
a.t stmset WC were glad te reacli the tambo of Guaicuase,
204
THFJ VOYAGE
ov B.M.S. UEItALD. [Sçvternber,
te dry our clothes, severa] showers of rain having wetted
lis thoroughly.
The next morning we pssed Mollatura, a village containing only fourteen inhabitants, Mit having a neat little
chapel. On the foliowing day we arrived at the tambo
of Yerba Buena, which is about 5000 feet abo ye thc sea,
and takes its name from a plant (Men (ita, sp.) growing
in abundance in tho neighbourhood. Several passengers
from Guayaquil were stopping at the place, all complaining of the frightful date of the road from Naranjal. A
lady who had just arrived ivas nearly exhausted by the
fatigue of the journey, having had te sleep in the forest
the previous night, ¿md to ride on horseback aB day;
we assisted her as much as ve conid, and, having plénty
of provisions, we xvere able te give her and her husband
a good supper.
We had to remain a w7hole day in Yerba Buena, two
of the mules havirig strayed during the night, ¿md probably returned te Cuenca, and, to inake malters worse,
ono of our Indians was taken iii with fever. flore was
a thick fog, but, although we could seo only a short distauco before iis, Pim ¿md 1 discovered sorne fine pla.nts,
—aniong them was the Ruclisia pectabilis, Hook., one
of the most beautiful species known. In the afternoon
the sky became olear, the fog rose like a curtain, and a
rnagnificent view, ineluding the Pacific Ocean, the river
Guayaquil, mirnerous lagoons, ¿md the Chimborazo, presented itself.
On the 23rd, about noon, the muleteers returned
without having succeeded in finding the animals; but
as they left their own goods beliind, 've Nvere able to
1847.]
CAVE OF CTIACAYAQUE.
205
depart. As we were starting a party arrived who had
lost two mules over a precipice. !L'he statc of the roads
had not been cxaggeratcd: they were so muddy that
the mulos fairly plunged through; afterwards, as vc
cornmenced descending, the peor animals liad tu sude
dowu the sido of the mountairi at least a hmxlred yards
ni a time lii a zigzag direction: it vas frightful. The
mulos vere left tu their own sagacity, and it was wonderful te see thom, in parts whieh ran by precipices, sude
past, kecping tlieir balance with the greatest nicety.
Ruin was pouring, and, the ground being a perfect
swamp, it va.s impossible tu stop for the night. However, although it was difficult tu chive thc guides on, as it
ivas indifferent tu thom whether thy were ivet or dry,
yet we were determined tu reach the cave of Chacayaque,
the usual resting-place of travellers. We had to cross
several rivers after dark: nono of thom vere deeper than
the mules' saddlle-girths, but they were so rapid as
almost tu occasion the loss of one of the boxes; the
utmost strength of the men was required te urge the
nearly exhausted mule through the water. Vio reached
the cave about ten o'clock at night: it vas little hetter
than the ground outside, the rain had been blown into
it and wetted it thorougblly. We were unable to light a
fire; and being very wet, and disturbed by bats, musquitoes, and sand-flies, we did not sleep.
The river Chacayaque we found tu be of considerable
size; its banks, as aso the pathway, were thickly strewed
with mica, so that our boots and leggings became covered with it. With the flrst streak of daylight ve left
the cave: our road lay through a denso forest, in which
206
TITE VOYAGE OF lI.M.S. HERALD.
[&ptcmber,
palms ímd tree-ferns abounded, and sve crossed several
swamps, parfly caused by the decay of vegetable matter;
the effluviurn they emitted was sickening. Aftcr abont
two leagues' ride through these unheaithy places, the
ground became drier, and we obscrved a groat number
of chameleons, presenting a bcautiful spocta.cle as they
were ruiining hetween the stones and roots of the treos.
At noon we entered Naranjal, a srnall town of about 400
inhabita.nts, chiefiy negroes. Its houses are built upon
polos, like thosc in the Bay of Choco. In the vicinity
there are oxtensive plantations of cacao, for which the
rnoist climate is very favourabla; orange-trees (naranjos) aro not very inuch cultivated, aithough the name of
the place would lead one to expect largo groves of thom.
Don Manuel Pico, the teniente of the place, to whorn
we had a letter of introduction, and who moreover had
beon informed of our arrival by Walter Cope, Esq., the
l3ritish Consul at Guayaquil, behaved with great kindness towards ns. At his house ve found a note from
our surgeon, Mr. John Goodridge, who had been diere
with the Oonsul, hoping to ineet us. In thc aSternoon we went to the port of Naranjal, a distance of two
bagues: there were only two houses, which vere situated on the bank of a ditch, with several canoes mi it;
we could seo the masts of sorne larger craft a little
further down, where thc river widcns. Colonel Taibot,
in his Ietter, liad requested the teniente Lo supply us with
mosquito-curtains, which were indeed a luxury; without
thom the mosquitoes wou.ld liave tormented 11$ rnost terribly; oven thc negroes ha yo their beds thus protected.
At ono of the houses Wc foiind four ladies from Guaya-
1847.]
ARItJVAL IN GUAYAQUIL.
207
qilil waiting for their horses to proceed Lo Cuenca; the
niother, having just rccovered from a severo foyer, was
to be taken Lo the elevated regions of the Andes, to enjoy the benefiL of the rnountarn air. Wc heartily pitied
thcse travellers; and as thcy anxiously asked ns about
tlie state of the roads we were obliged to tcII them the
truth. The next morning ve embarkcd on board a
cliaté, a small vessel whicli was loaded with cacao. The
river, as we descended it, widened considerably, until at
its mouth it eould not ha y o been less than three-quarters
of a milo in breadth. The banks vcre clothed with mangoes; alligators abounded, bat although we fired at them
repeatedly, we did not succeed in killing any. At the
mouth of the Naranjal we got a fine breeze, which, with
the tide, took us rapidly up the river Guayaquil. About
sunset it became calm, witit heavy ram, compelling us Lo
anchor for the night. Wheii the tide turned, the chalé
was once more goL under way, and early iii the rnoirnirig
carne alongside the wharf of Guayaquil.